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Western Anatolia

Durable, diverse and down to earth, western Anatolia combines everything from ancient sites and spectacular mountain terrain to some of Turkey's heartiest food and friendliest people.

The region's diversity of ancient civilisations can be experienced directly: hike the rock-carved Phrygian Valley; pound marbled pavements in the ancient cities of Sagalassos and Afrodisias; or take a woodland pilgrimage on the St Paul Trail. Original Ottoman capital Bursa, meanwhile, is a cornerstone of Turkish identity, with mosques, imperial mausoleums and the İskender kebap. The shimmering travertine pools of Pamukkale, on the other hand, are just great for splashing in.

The region's lesser-known attractions constitute its secret weapon: escapist Eğirdir, set on a tranquil lake, is perfect for hiking, taking a jaunt in a local fisher's boat or for doing nothing at all; while vibrant Eskişehir, a student city with an atmospheric old town, offers river gondola rides and happening bars and restaurants.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Western Anatolia.

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    Hierapolis

    This ancient spa city's location atop Pamukkale's tourist-magnet travertines is quite spectacular. Founded as a curative centre around 190 BC by Eumenes II of Pergamum, it prospered under both the Romans and Byzantines, when large Jewish and Orthodox Christian communities comprised most of the population. Recurrent earthquakes brought disaster, and Hierapolis was finally abandoned after an AD 1334 tremor. When visiting, don't miss the Roman Theatre, the agora and the on-site museum. From mid-October to March, last tickets are 5pm. Byzantine Gate to the Martyrium of St Philip the Apostle Entering at the south gate, walk through the 5th-century Byzantine gate, built of travertine blocks and marble among other materials, and pass the Doric columns of the 1st-century gymnasium. An important building in health-oriented Hierapolis, it collapsed in a 7th-century earthquake. Continue straight on for the foundations of the Temple of Apollo. As at Didyma and Delphi, eunuch priests tended the temple's oracle. Its alleged power derived from an adjoining spring, the Plutonium (named after the underworld god Pluto). Apparently only the priests understood the secret of holding one's breath around the toxic fumes that billowed up from Hades, immediately killing the small animals and birds they sacrificed. The spectacular Roman Theatre, built in stages by emperors Hadrian and Septimius Severus, could seat more than 12,000 spectators. The stage mostly survives, along with some decorative panels and the front-row VIP 'box' seats. From the theatre, tracks lead uphill and to the left towards the less-visited but fascinating Martyrium of St Philip the Apostle, an intricate octagonal structure on terrain where St Philip was supposedly martyred. Hellenistic Theatre to Frontinus Street From the Martyrium, a rough path that gives fantastic views of the site and the plains beyond leads west across the hillside to the completely ruined Hellenistic Theatre, above the 2nd-century agora. One of the largest ever discovered, the agora was surrounded by marble porticoes with Ionic columns on three sides, and enclosed by a basilica on the fourth. From the theatre, follow the steep overgrown diagonal path towards the poplars to reach the agora (alternatively, backtrack to the Martyrium of St Philip the Apostle for an easier path down). Walking downhill through the agora, you will re-emerge on the ridgeline main path. Turn right on colonnaded Frontinus Street, where some original paving and columns remain. Monumental archways once bounded both ends of what was the city's main commercial thoroughfare. The ruined Arch of Domitian is at the southern end; just before this is Hierapolis' large latrine building. Necropolis Beyond the Arch of Domitian are the ruined Roman Baths, and further past these, an Appian Way–style paved road leads to the north gate passing through an extraordinary necropolis, which extends up the hills. The tombs range from circular tumulus-style to ornate double-storey sarcophagi.

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    Travertines

    The World Heritage–listed saucer-shaped travertines (or terraces) of Pamukkale wind sideways down the powder-white mountain above the village, providing a stunning contrast to the clear blue sky and green plains below. To protect the unique calcite surface that overruns with warm, mineral-rich waters, guards oblige you to go barefoot (or in socks or shower shoes), so if you're planning to walk down to the village via the travertines, be prepared to carry your shoes with you. Although the ridges look rough, in reality the constant water flow keeps the ground mostly smooth, even gooey in places, and the risk of slipping is greater than that of cutting your feet. To walk straight down without stopping takes about 30 minutes. The constant downward motion can be hard on the knees. Although the terrace pools are not particularly deep, you can get fully submerged in the thermal water. There is a gushing channel of warm water at the top of the path down through the travertines, where representatives of many nations sit and give their legs a good soak. If you do not have a bathing suit or shorts, or otherwise do not wish to get too wet, note that although there are usually many dry sections leading down, the amount of pools (up to calf-height) you have to wade through depends on the time of year. Also note that midday to 4pm means crowds and sharp sunlight reflecting off the dazzling white surface; early morning or sunset is better.

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    Sagalassos

    The sprawling ancient city ruins of Sagalassos, dating from 1200 BC, are set high amid the stark and jagged peaks of Ak Dağ (White Mountain). Rarely troubled by crowds or tour buses, Sagalassos makes a great day trip from Eğirdir or Antalya and is a place to linger and appreciate. It takes roughly two to three hours to explore. Highlights include a 9000-seat Roman theatre and the outstanding Antonine Nymphaeum. Signage is excellent with detailed representations of the various structures. Although repeatedly devastated by earthquakes over the centuries, the ancient city was never pillaged, and reconstruction is slowly moving ahead. The Antonine Nymphaeum, a huge fountain complex wrought from seven different kinds of stone, is ornately decorated and some 9m high and 28m wide. The impressive restoration is a massive structure supported by rows of thick columns (including bright-blue marble ones in the centre), through which huge sheets of water gush into a lengthy receptacle. Sagalassos sprawls uphill across steep terrain, so good walking shoes are a must. Even on hot and sunny days, the treeless and exposed site is often windy, and clouds can suddenly arrive (bring an extra shirt or sweater). In summer, go early or late to avoid the midday sun. The ticket office closes at 5pm from October to April.

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    Muradiye Complex

    This Ottoman-era complex incorporates a stately medrese (seminary; 1426) and the equally handsome Sultan Murat II (Muradiye) Cami, also built in 1426, but its most interesting elements are the 12 imperial türbes (tombs) in the cemetery. A number of these tombs are exquisitely decorated with tiles, painted calligraphy and inlaid woodcarving. Don't miss the 14th-century tomb of Cem Sultan (the third son of Mehmet the Conqueror) and 16th-century tombs of Şehzades Mahmud and Ahmed, the sons of Beyazıt II. Like other Islamic dynasties, the Ottomans did not practice primogeniture – any royal son could claim power upon his father's death, which, unsurprisingly, resulted in numerous bloodbaths. The tombs preserve this macabre legacy: all the şehzades (imperial sons) interred here were killed by close relatives. While many of the tombs are ornate, the tomb of Sultan Murat II (r 1421–51), an ascetic and part-time dervish as well as father to Mehmet II (Mehmet the Conqueror), is simple and stark. The 15th-century Muradiye Medresesi was a tuberculosis clinic in the 1950s and still houses a medical centre. It's not open to visit. Similarly, the Sultan Murat II Hamamı, which catered to the medrese students, is now a government building. A taxi from the city centre will charge around ₺15 to get here.

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    Yeşil Cami

    Built for Mehmet I, the Yeşil (Green) Cami was completed in 1422 and represents a departure from the previous, Persian-influenced Seljuk architecture that dominated Bursa. Exemplifying Ottoman styling, it contains a harmonious facade and beautiful carved marble work around the central doorway. The mosque was named for the interior walls' greenish-blue tiles. Diverse calligraphy exists on the niches of the main door to the mosque. Entering its ornate interior, you'll enter a domed central hall with a 15m-high mihrab (niche indicating the direction of Mecca). A narrow staircase leads to the sumptuously tiled hünkar mahfili (sultan's private box) where the great man stayed when in town; the harem and household staff enjoyed less plush digs on either side.

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    Roman Theatre

    The Roman theatre is the highlight of Hierapolis, dramatically sitting uphill from the site and overlooking the ruins and mountains beyond. The stage area, with its decorative panels, and 12,000-spectator capacity seating tiers have been carefully restored. It was built in two stages by the emperors Hadrian and Septimius Severus.

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    Ulu Cami

    This enormous Seljuk-style mosque (1399) is central Bursa's dominating feature. Sultan Beyazıt I built it in a monumental compromise – having pledged to build 20 mosques after defeating the Crusaders in the Battle of Nicopolis, he settled for one mosque with 20 small domes. Two massive minarets augment the domes, while the giant square pillars and portals within are similarly impressive. The minber (pulpit) boasts fine wood carvings, and the walls feature intricate calligraphy.

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    Odunpazarı

    Eskişehir's protected heritage district is crammed with cobblestone alleyways of timber-framed konaks (mansions) with overhanging upper stories. Many of the creaky pastel-shaded houses contain small museums, craft shops and cafes and on weekends day-tripping Turks head here to stroll the lanes, browse the stalls and sit in the shady cafes supping çay. This was Eskişehir's first Turkish district, and it features Ottoman and even Seljuk structures. Odun means 'firewood' (the area was once a firewood bazaar). To get to Odunpazarı from central Eskişehir, catch the ESTram to the Atatürk Lisesi stop, or it's around a 2.5km walk southeast of the Porsuk River.

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    Odunpazarı Modern Museum

    This ambitious art museum, with its highly contemporary wood-slat facade riffing on Eskişehir's history as a major wood-market town, opened in 2019. Founded to showcase construction magnate Erol Tabanca's significant modern art collection, the galleries focus on works by Turkish artists such as Burhan Doğançay, Azade Köker and Taner Ceylan. It also features international names such as Japanese artist Tanabe Chikuunsai IV, whose huge installation, which twists from wall to floor in one gallery, was created specifically for the museum.