Ignore the scruffy mannequin-inhabited dioramas and instead feast your eyes on the glorious interior of painted wooden wall-panels and ceilings. The building dates from the 15th century and Mamluk architectural influence is obvious in its black-and-white stone facade. During the 19th century the house, with its multicoloured beams and intricately carved woodwork, was home to composer and lyricist Ahmet Mithat Güpgüpoğlu.

The building was closed for a much-needed restoration when we last pulled into town but it's pegged to open again by 2018.