Getty Images/iStockphoto
From the windswept ruins of the old Armenian capital Ani to the haunting shells of medieval Georgian churches and impossibly perched clifftop castles, Turkey's far northeastern corner is a spectacular compendium of the multiple cultures that have trodden this frontier region over more than two millennia. Seljuk and Ottoman palaces and mosques, the Russian architecture of Kars and the occasional ancient Zoroastrian fire temple are set amid stunning landscapes that transmute from deep green river valleys to high pastures, snowy passes, arid steppeland and the majesty of Turkey's highest peak, 5137m Mt Ararat.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Far Northeast.
Ruins
The ruins of Ani, 45km east of Kars, are an absolute must-see. Visitors enter through gigantic fortress walls that look like they fell off a crusader castle. Beyond lie the sparsely scattered wrecks of great stone buildings adrift on a sea of undulating grass, landmarks of a ghost city that was once the stately Armenian capital and home to nearly 100,000 people. Today the windswept ruins poignantly overlook the river, which marks the closed Turkish–Armenian border.
Palace
There are few experiences as magical as watching a blazing sunset from behind this ridgetop stone structure, its dome and minaret silhouetted against a vast landscape that appears to stretch to infinity. Backed by serrated crags, the ruined palace (completed 1784) has been patched up and, while many walls are bare, there are several sections with fine stone reliefs, now partially sheltered by a new glass roof. Even when it's closed, taking the 6km trip up here from central Doğubayazıt is an absolute must.
Church
Appealingly sited overlooking a stretch of river gorge, this 13th-century church appears relatively intact, though the current main door is within what was once an internal wall, patched up after the western end of the nave was lost. Built in 1215 by a pious merchant, Tigran Honents, it is dedicated to St Gregory the Illuminator, but sometimes known in Turkish as Resimli Kilise (Church with Pictures) due to the lively, if partly defaced, frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible and Armenian church history.
Cathedral
Second only to Dörtkilise, Öşkvank is the region's most memorable Georgian church. Large, relatively well preserved and with plenty of very fine relief carvings, it sits in the heart of Çamlıyamaç village. It's 8km off the Erzurum-Artvin road, accessed via a side valley that's full of scenic delights. If you can get in, the interior is breathtaking, with four massive pillars soaring upwards to high arches that support the 12-windowed drum tower and dome.
Church
Despite a 30m tower-spire, this laboriously restored ancient church is somewhat hidden amongst trees in Upper İşhan (İşhan Köyü), a green oasis village on an otherwise barren mountainside. Founded in the 7th century by an exiled Armenian bishop it was rebuilt several times by Georgians, reaching more or less its final form in 1032 as Tao-Klarjeti's most important cathedral. The site is 7km off the D060 (Yusufeli–Gole) highway, turning north 13km east of the Artvin–Erzurum junction near (lower) İşhan.
Cave
The cliffs and valleys all around the Ani plateau are riddled with hundreds of caves that guides have collectively dubbed Ani's 'Underground City'. Mostly carved out by humans over the millennia, the caves have served as dwellings, animal shelters, chapels and – the smallest ones – pigeon houses to provide a source of eggs and fertiliser. Visible clusters lie in the gully below the Church of Grigor Pahlavuny and across the valley from the Seljuk Palace.
Castle
This ruined fortress-citadel is a very dramatic sight, sat impregnably on top of a crag formed by soaring sheer rockfaces that rise from a hilltop on the nothwestern edge of Ardanuç town. Rather than attempting a potentially dangerous ascent of the crag, drive on up the steep, narrow approach lane, continuing around 1km beyond the first hilltop plateau, then look back to view the ruins with a thrilling, mountain backdrop.
Fortress
Dating from at least 1153, Kars Castle' s hefty, dark-stone walls crown the craggy ridge that dominates the city-centre's northern edge, fronted by a series of historic mosques. Climbing the ramparts offers a series of sweeping views, especially memorable before sunset, but there is no museum and relatively little to see inside beyond gazing at the panorama from the Kale Cafe.
Church
The impressively huge frontage of this shattered 10th-century Georgian church stands at the back of a peaceful highland village accessed by a 10km series of partly asphalted roads amid some very pretty landscapes. As you approach, a carpet of terraced fields rises towards the church, but the ruins are almost invisible between trees until shortly before you arrive. There are a couple of cafes next to the site.