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Eastern Mediterranean

The UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office advise against all travel to most places along the Syrian border in Southeast Turkey.

This is Turkey's non-airbrushed slice of Mediterranean coastline. A handful of distinctly local-style beach resorts lie between the industrial port cities. Crumbling ruins sit among acres of intensely farmed countryside with nary a tourist in sight. In the ancient towns of Tarsus and Antakya, atmospheric old-town fragments cling on amid the modern hubbub.

Southern Hatay Province's fascinating melding of religions, languages and foods is reason enough for many to linger. For others, the wealth of important early Christian sites is the eastern Med's ace up its sleeve. The area's historical riches encompass a dizzying timeline of kings and conquerors that stretches from Karatepe's late-Hittite remnants, through Roman Anemurium, to the clifftop castles of once-mighty Cilicia. The stretch of the Mediterranean that most people miss is full of surprises for those who make the trip.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern Mediterranean.

  • See

    Alanya Castle

    Surmounting Alanya's rocky peninsula is its awesome, Seljuk-era castle, girdled by 6km of walls and awaiting Unesco World Heritage listing. Climb to it through the steep streets of the Tophane district to get a sense of its scale, enjoying a wonderful viewpoint across the city and Cilician mountains. Right at the top is the İç Kale, within which are plentiful ruins including some 400 cisterns, the shell of a small 11th-century Byzantine church and a platform over a vertiginous drop to the sea. If you're not up to the steep 3.5km climb, catch bus 4 from the dolmuş station behind the Grand Bazaar (₺2.50, hourly from 9am to 7pm, half-hourly in summer) or opposite the regional tourist office (10 minutes past the hour and, in summer, also 15 minutes before the hour). Taxis are around ₺25. Alternatively, catch the new Alanya Teleferik, a cable car that ferries passengers between the lower station near Cleopatra’s Beach and the upper station in the castle's Ehmedek section.

  • See

    Tersane

    A wooden walkway runs south along the old harbour's east wall from the Red Tower to the Tersane, the only Seljuk-built shipyard remaining in Turkey. Antique ceramic shards litter the stones, indicating the succession of civilisations that have built here – with the waves sloshing through its five restored vaulted chambers, it's highly atmospheric. From here the walkway continues further along the shoreline to a small armoury, which would have served as a coastal watchtower during the Seljuk era. It is currently under renovation.

  • See

    Ehmedek

    As you walk up to Alanya Castle, the road passes a turn-off for the village of Ehmedek, which was the Turkish quarter during Ottoman and Seljuk times. Today a number of old wooden houses still cluster around three-towered Ehmedek Castle, built in 1227, and the boxlike 16th-century Süleymaniye Camii, the oldest mosque in Alanya. Also here is a former Ottoman bedesten (vaulted covered market) and the Akşebe Türbesi, a distinctive 13th-century mausoleum. There's also an Ömürlü Kemal Atli Cultural Centre, re-creating comfortable life in Ottoman times on two floors. Don't miss the views from the delightful balcony.

  • See

    Alanya Archaeological Museum

    Refurbished in 2012, Alanya's small but excellently curated museum is worth a visit to see artefacts, including tools, jugs, jewellery, letters and coins, from the succession of cultures that have called the surrounding area home. Its prize pieces include a fine 52cm bronze of Hercules from the 2nd century AD and a kind of deed in Phoenician dating to 625 BC. The museum is divided into 20 display rooms and areas, including three outside of sarcophaguses and ostotheks (boxes containing ashes of the deceased). You can also try your hand at navigating Alanya Harbour behind the wheel of an old sailing ship.

  • See

    Red Tower

    This striking five-storey octagonal defence tower, measuring nearly 30m in diameter, more than 30m in height and with a central cistern within for water storage, looms over the harbour at the lower end of İskele Caddesi. Constructed in 1226 by Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubad I (who also built Alanya Castle), it was the first structure erected after the Armenian-controlled town surrendered to the sultan, and is now the city's symbol. Climb the 70-odd steps to the roof; the views are amazing.

  • See

    Ömürlü Kemal Atli Cultural Centre

    This carefully prepared ethnographic museum displays life as it would have been for Ottoman Turks in Alanya in the 19th century, over two floors. Sometimes volunteer silk spinners work the loom in the handicraft centre next door, which is fascinating to watch. Check out the views from the delightful balcony but don the plastic shoe slippers provided first.

  • See

    Cleopatra's Beach

    Sandy and quite secluded in low season, and with fine views of the fortress, Cleopatra's Beach is the city's best. Alanya's main beaches are also decent enough, although east of the centre they're fronted by a busy main road. The teleferik will deposit you practically on Cleopatra's Beach from the castle.

  • See

    Armoury

    This large tower would have served as a coastal watchtower and arsenal during the Seljuk era. If you're game you can follow the walls from here towards the East Bastion, then climb them as they scale the seaward cliff towards the castle, with wonderful views on the way. Be warned, though: they are crumbling, very steep and not exactly safe.

  • See

    Phosphorus Cave

    The area near this cave is often used for a swimming stop by many of the excursion boats setting out from Alanya harbour. Despite its name, the glittering effect on the water surface inside the cave is actually caused by reflected moonlight not phosphorous.