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Southern Tunisia
Southern Tunisia is a place of stark, almost alien landscapes. This is a place of isolated Berber villages on hilltops and troglodyte homes dug into the ground to protect against the harshness of the climate. Ancient ksour (traditional fortified granaries) dot the countryside, speaking even more plaintively to the region's history.
To the south and west, the shifting sand dunes take over. This is the Tunisian Grand Erg Oriental, one of the Sahara’s most expansive sand seas. Venture out from oasis towns huddled amid vast palm groves to explore one of the country's most remarkable and breathtaking settings, by camel or 4WD.
Before travelling, pay attention to the security situation – some Western governments currently advise against all but essential travel to certain parts of the south, including Douz, Nefta, Medenine and the Ksour Country because of the small risk of terrorism. All areas close to Libya are to be avoided completely.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southern Tunisia.
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Palmeraie
This enormous green space has more than 200,000 date palms, as well as fig and pomegranate trees and canopied garden holdings. It's best explored by foot, bicycle (ask at your hotel for recommended bike hire), or calèche (horse-drawn carriage).
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Dar Charaït Museum
The museum is housed is an extravagant reproduction of an old palace and contains collections of pottery, jewellery, costumes and other antiques, as well as an art gallery. Scattered throughout the rooms off the splendid main courtyard is a series of replicas of scenes from Tunisian life, past and present. They include the bedroom of the last bey (provincial governor), a palace scene, a typical kitchen, a hammam, wedding scenes and a Bedouin tent.
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Ouled El Hadef
This 14th-century medina has a unique, striking architecture of pale brickwork arranged in relief patterns of endless, rhythmic variation; the easiest way in is from Ave de Kairouan. Many of the buildings have been beautifully restored, and there are numerous boards with information on specific mosques, shrines and other historic buildings. The families living here come outside to socialise come dusk – strolling at this time is quite special
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Belvedere Rocks
A sandy track running south off the Rte Zone Touristique near the Dar Charaït Museum leads to the Belvedere Rocks. Steps have been cut into the highest rock, giving access to a spectacular sunset view over the oasis and the chott (salt lake). It’s a pleasant 20-minute walk. Too much landscaping has taken away somewhat from the beauty of the natural setting, but not entirely; look for the giant Mount Rushmore–like face of face of Tunisia's national poet Abdulkacem Chebbi, who was born in Tozeur (it's hard to miss).
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Palmeraie
Not that you’re counting, but the palmeraie here is one of the largest of all the Tunisian desert oases, with almost half a million palm trees. A wonderfully productive place, it turns out a remarkable assortment of fruit and vegetables, as well as prized deglat ennour (ʻfinger of light’) dates. Explore it along one of the two roads leading south through the palmeraie from the western end of Ave des Martyrs (the roads link up at the Zone Touristique).
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Chak Wak Park
This incongruous, trippy park is a testament to the vision of the former mayor of Tozeur. Scattered around gorgeous grounds is what amounts to a 3D education on evolution, history and religion. Highlights include life-sized replicas of dinosaurs, a gallery of icons of the world's major religions and a good history of Hannibal and the Carthaginian wars. It's all tremendous fun, and there's a particularly well-situated restaurant, pizza place and cafe.
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Musée du Sahara
A visit to the small folk museum provides some perspective and context for the desert lifestyle. It has a collection of regional costumes, a mock nomad tent and an section explaining the tattoos worn by local women. There’s also information on camel husbandry and a section on desert plants. It’s worth a visit, although explanatory text is in Arabic and French, and the opening hours are serving suggestions only.
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Ksar Ouled Debbab
This huge ksar (traditional fortified granary) sits on a low hill just east of the modern village of Debbab. It was occupied until several years ago, and most of the buildings are still in good condition. There’s a sealed road leading up to the entrance gate from Debbab; the walk takes about 20 minutes.
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Waterfalls
The 8m-high waterfall below old Tamerza is popular with local day-trippers. In happier, wetter times, the falls made a pool large enough to swim in – a great novelty in such a barren landscape. These days people wade in barely up to their knees to take the obligatory selfie.