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Southern Tunisia
Southern Tunisia is a place of stark, almost alien landscapes. This is a place of isolated Berber villages on hilltops and troglodyte homes dug into the ground to protect against the harshness of the climate. Ancient ksour (traditional fortified granaries) dot the countryside, speaking even more plaintively to the region's history.
To the south and west, the shifting sand dunes take over. This is the Tunisian Grand Erg Oriental, one of the Sahara’s most expansive sand seas. Venture out from oasis towns huddled amid vast palm groves to explore one of the country's most remarkable and breathtaking settings, by camel or 4WD.
Before travelling, pay attention to the security situation – some Western governments currently advise against all but essential travel to certain parts of the south, including Douz, Nefta, Medenine and the Ksour Country because of the small risk of terrorism. All areas close to Libya are to be avoided completely.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Southern Tunisia.
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Ksar Oued Soltane
The ghorfas (long, barrel-vaulted rooms built to store grain) of Ksar Ouled Soltane rise a dizzying four storeys around two courtyards and are one of southern Tunisia's architectural highlights. Scenes from Star Wars film The Phantom Menace were shot here, when they stood in for part of the slave quarters where Anakin Skywalker grew up. The site has been renovated to give visitors a sense of how it would have appeared when first built.
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Ksar Ezzahra
This is a relatively little visited ksar (Berber fortified granary), which is a shame because it almost rivals Oued Soltane as the best in the region. It is almost uniformly four storeys of ghorfas (grain stores) in fine condition with two courtyards, many staircases and multilayered tiers. You'll almost certainly have the place to yourself, making it an extra treat to explore.
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Hotel Sidi Driss
This hotel and old troglodyte house is Matmata's biggest draw because of its iconic status as a Star Wars film location. Spread over several pit courtyards connected by underground tunnels, it stood in for Luke Skywalker’s childhood home on Tatooine in the original 1977 movie and was used again in The Phantom Menace and Attack of the Clones. The accommodation (single/double 40/60DT, half-board 50/80DT) in bare-bones cave rooms – cheap mattresses and hard rock – suit a Jedi's spartan nature. Bathrooms are shared.
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Mos Espa
Mos Espa is probably Tunisia’s best-preserved Star Wars set. It’s remarkably intact and one of the best Star Wars sites in the country. The site is a collection of nearly 20 domed purpose-built buildings that stood for the Tatooine spaceport of Mos Espa in The Phantom Menace (tour guides know it simply as 'the Star Wars set').
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Ksar Joumaa
Joumaa is as good a ksar (Berber granary) as you could hope to find, with a splendid remote setting. It's almost a street of ghorfas (grain stores) at the end of a rough track leading up from the village of Joumaa. It’s easy to spend an hour or so exploring them. Look out for unusual motifs on some of the ceilings. An archway leads to an inner courtyard and the ruins of the old kalaa (hill fort).
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Ksar
Medenine’s only attraction is its well-preserved ksar (fortified granary). It can seem as if every square inch of every ghorfa (long, barrel-vaulted grain store) surrounding the courtyard is covered with souvenirs, ceramics and carpets on sale for visiting tourists, but it makes for lively photos. It was built by the Ouergherma federation in the 17th century following the decision to leave the mountain stronghold of Ghomrassen and assert authority over the plains.
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Ksar Haddada
Ksar Haddada draws a steady stream of visitors who marvel at its maze of small alleyways and courtyards. It became a place of pilgrimage for Star Wars fans following its appearance in The Phantom Menace – it was one of the locations that stood in for the slave quarters where Anakin Skywalker grew up, and it's an atmospheric place, even for those who hate the prequel trilogy. Note that the ksar owners keep a large collection of sad-looking chained animals that some visitors may find depressing.
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Dar Charaït Museum
The museum is housed is an extravagant reproduction of an old palace and contains collections of pottery, jewellery, costumes and other antiques, as well as an art gallery. Scattered throughout the rooms off the splendid main courtyard is a series of replicas of scenes from Tunisian life, past and present.
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Ouled El Hadef
This 14th-century medina has a unique, striking architecture of pale brickwork arranged in relief patterns of endless, rhythmic variation; the easiest way in is from Ave de Kairouan. Many of the buildings have been beautifully restored, and there are numerous boards with information on specific mosques, shrines and other historic buildings.