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Phang-Nga Province

Jungle-shrouded mountains carved up by thick rivers leading to aqua bays sprinkled with sheer limestone karsts and, below, some of Thailand's finest underwater treasures. That's Phang-Nga.

This is national park territory, with four of Thailand's finest conservation areas in fairly close proximity here. Divers can head for the Similan and Surin Islands, where some of Thailand's most legendary dive sites await (good for snorkellers too), while on terra firma the Khao Sok National Park is one of the oldest rainforests in the world and home to many rare species, as well as caves and waterfalls. But if you just want to laze on the sand, there are the beaches around Khao Lak and some still little-visited nearby islands.

Phang-Nga is very seasonal. From mid-October to mid-April, visitors flood in for the clear waters, snow-white beaches and colourful reefs. But far fewer arrive during the May-to-October monsoon, leaving you plenty of space.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Phang-Nga Province.

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    Ao Phang-Nga National Park

    Established in 1981, 400-sq-km Ao Phang-Nga National Park is famous for its classic karst scenery. Huge vertical cliffs dominate its 42 islands, some with caves that lead into hidden hôrng (lagoons surrounded by solid rock walls). The bay is composed of large and small tidal channels (Khlong Ko Phanyi, Khlong Phang-Nga, Khlong Bang Toi, Khlong Bo Saen), which run north to south through vast mangroves and function as aquatic highways. These are Thailand's largest remaining primary mangrove forests. Ao Phang-Nga's marine limestone environment conceals lots of reptiles, such as Bengal monitor lizards, two-banded monitors (which look like crocodiles when swimming), flying lizards, banded sea snakes, shore pit vipers and Malayan pit vipers. Mammals amid the mangroves and on islands include serows, crab-eating macaques, white-handed gibbons and dusky langurs. In high season the bay becomes a clogged package-tourist superhighway. But if you explore in the early morning (best done from Ko Yao Noi or Ko Yao Yai) or stay out a bit later, you might just find a slice of beach, sea or limestone karst of your own. The most fun way to experience the park is by kayak. At the time of research, there were plans to introduce compulsory advanced e-ticketing for the national park.

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    Chiaw Lan Lake

    This stunning 165-sq-km lake sits 65km east (an hour’s drive) of Khao Sok National Park Headquarters. It was created in 1982 by an enormous shale-clay dam called Ratchaprapha (Kheuan Ratchaprapha or Chiaw Lan). Limestone outcrops protruding from the lake reach up to 960m, over three times higher than Phang-Nga's formations. Most lake visits involve a day or overnight tour (including transfers, boats and guides). You can charter a boat (2000B per day) from local fisherfolk at the dam's entrance to explore the coves, canals, caves and cul-de-sacs along the lakeshore. Two caves can be accessed by foot from the southwestern shore. Tham Nam Thalu contains striking limestone formations and subterranean streams. Visiting during the rainy season isn't recommended; there have been fatalities. Tham Si Ru features four converging passageways used as a hideout by communist insurgents between 1975 and 1982.

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    Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park

    Immediately south of Hat Khao Lak, this vast 125-sq-km park is a collage of sea cliffs, 1000m-high hills, beaches, estuaries, waterfalls, forested valleys and mangroves. Wildlife includes hornbills, drongos, tapirs, serows, monkeys, Bengal monitor lizards and Asiatic black bears. The park office and visitors centre, 3km south of Khao Lak proper, off Hwy 4, has little printed information, but there’s a scenic open-air restaurant perched on a shady slope overlooking the sea. From here, there's a fairly easy 3km (one-hour) round-trip nature trail south along the cape to often-deserted Hat Lek.

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    Tham Nam Thalu

    Reached on foot from the southwestern shore of Chiaw Lan Lake, Tham Nam Thalu contains striking limestone formations and subterranean streams. It is only partially accessible during the rainy season and we don't recommend visiting then; there have been fatalities due to flash flooding. You'll need a guide (per day 1200B) at any time of year; this can be arranged at the Khao Sok National Park Headquarters.

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    Khao Sok National Park

    Khao Sok National Park is close to the Andaman Sea, and possesses the classic Andaman topography: signature fern-covered limestone cliffs that shoot straight up into the air like crocodile teeth. It's also home to a number of gorgeous waterfalls that gush during the rainy season (May to October). You'll need a guide (per day 1200B) to access them; this can be arranged at the national park headquarters.

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    Ko Panyi

    A stilted Muslim village clings to this small karst island, where most tours dock for lunch. It's busy, but Ao Phang-Nga tour operators can arrange for you to stay overnight and soak up the scenery without crowds. The island is home to a small mosque, a floating soccer field and numerous souvenir and snack stalls.

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    Tham Si Ru

    Tham Si Ru features four converging passageways used as a hideout by communist insurgents between 1975 and 1982. It can be accessed on foot from the southwestern shore of Chiaw Lan Lake.

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    Ton Chongfa Waterfall

    This tiered waterfall makes for a nice half-day trip away from the beach. You can reach the park entrance by travelling 5.3km from the main road. From the end of the road it's a short but steep walk to the falls, where there is a swimming hole. Once in the pool, small fish come to nibble at your feet, cleaning off your dead skin cells. There are several more waterfalls if you have the energy to continue the uphill walk. Keep your ticket as it's also good for entry to the Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park.

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    Tsunami Memorial Park

    The wave-shaped Tsunami Memorial Park in Ban Nam Khem, a squid-fishing village 26km north of Hat Khao Lak that was nearly wiped off the map in the 2004 tsunami, remembers both locals and tourists who lost their lives. The actual memorial augments what, for years, was an unofficial pilgrimage site for those who came to pay their respects.