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Lake Victoria

Tanzania’s half of Africa’s largest lake sees few visitors, but the region holds many attractions for those with a bent for the offbeat and a desire to immerse themselves in the rhythms of local life beyond the tourist trail. The cities of Musoma and Bukoba have a quiet waterside charm, while most villagers on Ukerewe Island follow a subsistence lifestyle with little connection to the world beyond the shore.

Mwanza, Tanzania’s second-largest city, is appealing in its own way and is the perfect launching pad for a Serengeti–Lake Natron–Ngorongoro loop. Add the forests of idyllic Rubondo Island National Park, deep in the lake’s southwest reaches, for a well-rounded safari experience.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lake Victoria.

National Park
Rubondo Island National Park
Rubondo Island National Park, alluring for its tranquillity and sublime lakeshore scenery, is one of Tanzania’s best-kept secrets and there may be days when you’re the only guests on the 240-sq-km island. Birdwatching, particularly for shore birds (there are many migrants in November and December), brings the most visitors, but walking safaris (half-day walks US$11.80 per group), bush camping (adult/child US$59/6) and sport fishing (per day US$59) can also be rewarding.
Archaeological Site
Katuruka Heritage Site
A stop on the Bukoba Tours circuit, this site preserves the oldest-known iron-smelting furnace in east, central and southern Africa (from 500 BC; long before equivalent techniques were known in Europe). While the site itself is essentially just old bricks and some small nuggets, there are interesting shrines to King Rugomora (r AD 1650–75) and Mugasha, the god of storms and water. Your guide will tell you some fascinating legends about them.
Museum
Sukuma Museum
The Sukuma Museum in Bujora village is an open-air museum where, among other things, you’ll see traditional Sukuma dwellings, the grass house of a traditional healer, blacksmith’s tools and a rotating cylinder illustrating different Sukuma words for counting from one to 10. It is the site of the well-known Bulabo Dance Festival in June, where dancers compete using a variety of animals as props.
Museum
Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Museum
Julius Nyerere, the first President of Tanzania, was born in the otherwise insignificant little town of Butiama. This small museum inside the family compound celebrates his life and work. It contains a few stools, shields and other gifts he was given. Boxes of Nyerere’s personal effects, including his diaries, a handwritten Swahili translation of part of Plato’s Republic and collections of his poetry, are also here. Although these are not on display, you can ask the staff to see them.
Island
Musira Island
The big chunk of rock in front of Bukoba was a prison island in the days of the kings and now it offers an intriguing getaway. Upon arrival introduce yourself to the chairman and pay the island fee. Ask him to show you the path to the summit, which passes the Orthodox church and several homes made from elephant grass.
Museum
Kagera Museum
This small but worthwhile museum mixes a collection of local tribal items with photographs of wildlife from the Kagera region; drums, handbags and other crafted items are on display. A guide (which is more or less compulsory) charges Tsh3000.
Market
Mwaloni Market
Mwaloni Market, under the roof with the giant Balimi ad, is quite a spectacle. The city’s main fish market, it also has lots of fruits and vegetables, most shipped in on small boats from surrounding villages, and there are almost as many marabou storks as vendors. Photography is currently prohibited because some scenes in the controversial documentary film Darwin’s Nightmare (2004) were shot here.
Notable Building
Old German Mansion
Sitting atop Robert Koch Hill, the old German mansion is a Mwanza landmark with great views of the city and lake. Abandoned, it is a fun 'adventure'; several people now live here informally, but if you introduce yourself and give them a small donation (Tsh5000 should be OK), you should be able to look around. It is ill-advised to walk around the hill after dark.
Cathedral
Mater Misericordiae Cathedral
This landmark cathedral in the centre of town certainly draws attention to itself with its huge see-through, glass steeple. It looks like something from a B-grade sci-fi film. Unfortunately the entrance gates are normally locked outside service time but if you come past in the early morning there's more chance of them being open and you may be able to slip in for a look around.