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Tanzania’s half of Africa’s largest lake sees few visitors, but the region holds many attractions for those with a bent for the offbeat and a desire to immerse themselves in the rhythms of local life beyond the tourist trail. The cities of Musoma and Bukoba have a quiet waterside charm, while most villagers on Ukerewe Island follow a subsistence lifestyle with little connection to the world beyond the shore.
Mwanza, Tanzania’s second-largest city, is appealing in its own way and is the perfect launching pad for a Serengeti–Lake Natron–Ngorongoro loop. Add the forests of idyllic Rubondo Island National Park, deep in the lake’s southwest reaches, for a well-rounded safari experience.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lake Victoria.
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Mwaloni Market, under the roof with the giant Balimi ad, is quite a spectacle. The city’s main fish market, it also has lots of fruits and vegetables, most shipped in on small boats from surrounding villages, and there are almost as many marabou storks as vendors. Photography is currently prohibited because some scenes in the controversial documentary film Darwin’s Nightmare (2004) were shot here.
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Sitting atop Robert Koch Hill, the old German mansion is a Mwanza landmark with great views of the city and lake. Abandoned, it is a fun 'adventure'; several people now live here informally, but if you introduce yourself and give them a small donation (Tsh5000 should be OK), you should be able to look around. It is ill-advised to walk around the hill after dark.
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One of the more interesting rock formations around Mwanza is Jiwe Kuu (Big Rock), which some people call the Dancing Rocks. Many round boulders sit atop this rocky outcrop north of town and have managed to last for aeons without rolling off. Dalla-dallas to Bwiru run west down Nyerere Rd; their final stop leaves you within a 1.5km walk of the rocks.
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Smack in the city centre is Robert Koch Hill, with an attractively decrepit German-built mansion at the top. To get here, push through the bustling market, and take the trail through the beer garden and past all the piles of rubbish. You shouldn't go up here late in the day and single women shouldn't go alone.
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Mwanza’s icon, Bismarck Rock, is a precariously balanced boulder atop the lovely jumble of rocks in the lake next to the Kamanga ferry pier. The little park here is a brilliant sunset spot.
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The rocky island 500m off Capri Point is Saa Nane National Park. Even though it’s just 0.76 sq km and home to only monkeys and impalas, visiting costs more than some huge wildlife-filled national parks. Although with 70 bird species it does make a worthwhile short excursion for birders. Last entry is at 5pm. In addition to the entry fees add US$41.30 for the return boat trip (which can seat 20). You can check out the old bones and some rather sorry looking stuffed animals in the office (Capri Point Rd) for free.
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Mwanza has a Maasai Market, with a couple of dozen Maasai selling beaded jewellery and medicines on both sides of the footbridge.