Between Hualien and Taitung, the coastline rarely has more than a narrow strip of flat land fronting countless layers of plunging mountainsides, painted deep green with thick forests and interspersed with minor patches of orchard and rice terrace.
Much of the appeal is stopping at assorted viewpoints, beaches and headlands to gaze out over the Pacific. Heavy seas make swimming unwise in most places, but there are fine surf spots between Chenggong and Dulan, most notably off Jinzun harbour near Donghe. Artists' retreat Dulan is by far the most western-oriented village, though you might not notice that at first glance.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central East Coast.
Viewpoint
For spectacular views looking down across Dulan towards the ocean and horizon-silhouette of Green Island, you can't beat the upper balcony of this little gallery-cafe 3km above town. It's in a Japanese-era building which was renovated as the set for the 2005 movie The Moon Also Rises, with some props from the production still on display.
Park
One of Taiwan's most beautiful areas of unspoilt coastline runs south from Fengbin, culminating at a headland beyond Shitigang fishing harbour, known as Shihtiping. Here, a reserve area offers pathways and viewing platforms from which to appreciate a series of wave-battered geological formations, including deep rock pools and a white-coloured cuesta (sloping scarp) onto which you can clamber.
Island
The best-known icon of the whole east coast is the eight-humped pedestrian bridge that leads from a windswept headland to this craggy little offshore island. Ringed by wave-pummelled rocks and grey beaches, the scene is especially photogenic at sunrise or sunset, but expect plenty of company from tour-bus crowds.
Viewpoint
This short but memorable seascape experience includes a cliff-ledge walk where a 40m section is along a glass-floored protruding shelf above the Pacific. The glass is now misting so you don't really see beneath your feet, but the gentle exhilaration of the walk is well worth the entry fee and warrants a 20-minute stop if you're driving by.
Cultural Centre
On a convex grassy hillside amid trees both young and wizened, a series of contemporary outdoor sculptures add to wide sweeps of sea view. Down a stairway from the car park, beyond a large stone-stepped amphitheatre is a 'hamlet' of half a dozen reconstructed bamboo-and-thatch buildings giving a sense of Amis traditional living conditions.
Arts Centre
One of the east coast's most appealing concentrations of craft shops, artists' workshops and quirky cafes is clustered around the former sugar refinery towards the southern end of Dulan's main strip (Km44.3).
Amusement Park
This family-oriented theme park combines Disney-style 'castle', cable car, Ferris wheel, log flume, rollercoaster and pirate ship along with some ocean-based educational elements. While hardly state of the art, queues for rides are modest (outside major holidays periods) and there are sweeping sea views.
Viewpoint
On a bend of Hwy 11, this small roadside rest stop has what is arguably the most beautiful panorama of the whole east coast. Leafy branches frame the perfect view down across Jici Bay, with the curving beach backed by further mountains and bays that melt into a misty infinity.
Arts Centre
This eccentric if unpolished beachfront complex attracts visitors with its comically naive collection of driftwood art formed into gruesome faces beneath a little avenue of broadleaf trees. You can recoup the NT$50 entry fee against drinks or surprisingly impressive meal sets that include Amis salt pork or decent vegetarian options.