Moonlight Inn

Top choice in Central East Coast

For spectacular views looking down across Dulan towards the ocean and horizon-silhouette of Green Island, you can't beat the upper balcony of this little gallery-cafe 3km above town. It's in a Japanese-era building which was renovated as the set for the 2005 movie The Moon Also Rises, with some props from the production still on display.

Amid the morning's birdsong, it's a particularly peaceful spot and the cafe makes superb coffee. Note that their excellent 'special espresso' is actually more like an alcohol-free B52 – it includes cream and comes in a shot glass.

The beautiful if rather narrow 3km route from central Dulan follows Rte 42東 starting almost beside the Family Mart. It's well signposted in English, but has steep sections that are a little testing for cyclists. En route you'll pass two neolithic sites. The more interesting, at Km2.2, is a misnamed stone 'sarcophagus' that was more likely carved out as a container for storing liquids, perhaps ceremonial.

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