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The Marquesas

Grand, brooding and powerful, nature’s fingers have sculpted the Marquesas Islands into sharp silhouettes that jut up dramatically from the cobalt-blue ocean. Waterfalls taller than skyscrapers trickle down vertical canyons, the ocean thrashes towering cliffs, basalt pinnacles project from emerald forests, and scalloped bays are blanketed with desert arcs of white or black sand.

Some of the most inspirational hikes and horseback rides in French Polynesia are found here, allowing walkers and horse riders the opportunity to explore the islands’ rugged interiors. Here the past is almost palpable, thanks to a wealth of archaeological remains dating from pre-European times.

Another highlight is the culture. In everything from cuisine and dances to language and crafts, the Marquesas do feel different from the rest of French Polynesia. But don’t expect turquoise lagoons, swanky resorts and an electric nightlife – the Marquesas are an ecotourist’s dream, not a beach-holiday destination.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Marquesas.

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Iipona
Iipona is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia. You’ll be moved by its eeriness and impressed by the five monumental tiki – it pulsates with mana. As you advance towards the first platform, you’ll first notice the reclining Tiki Maki Taua Pepe, representing a woman lying on her stomach, her head stretched out and arms pointing to the sky. Experts believe she represents a woman giving birth. The petroglyphs on the pedestal represent dogs but their meaning is unknown. Tiki Takaii, at 2.67m, is the largest ancient tiki in French Polynesia; it’s named after a warrior chief renowned for his strength. Tiki Te Tovae E Noho is to the left of Takaii, on a lower platform. Less finely worked than the others, its upper torso is hard to make out and the head has disappeared. Note that its hands each have six fingers. Further back stands Tiki Fau Poe. Measuring about 1.8m, it is sitting with its legs stretched out, a position typical of women when they work in the fields. Experts believe it to be Takaii’s wife. Tiki Manuiotaa is in complete contrast to the others: less massive, its proportions are harmonious and balanced. The hands are clearly recognisable, as is its female sex. It was decapitated, but its head has been replaced by archaeologists. Known to ethnologists and archaeologists in the 1800s, the Iipona site was extensively restored in 1991 by French archaeologists Pierre and Marie-Noëlle Garanger-Ottino. To reach the site from Puamau, follow the track directly back from the seafront, next to the football ground, and continue for about 1.5km. You will need to pay 300 CFP to the person who maintains and guards the site.
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Kamuihei, Tahakia & Teiipoka
About 300m towards Taipivai from the Hikokua site, these three connecting sites make up the largest excavated archaeological area of Nuku Hiva. A team led by the archaeologist Pierre Ottino began restoration in 1998. The importance and sheer number of these structures testify to the dense population this valley once sheltered. With its large moss-covered basalt rocks and huge banyans, the largest of which has been estimated to be more than 600 years old, Kamuihei exudes mana (spiritual power). At the foot of the largest banyan is a deep pit, presumably dug for the remains of sacrifices or for taboo objects. Other pits are scattered about the site; these are mostly ua ma, which stocked the all-important breadfruit. A little higher, on Teiipoka, are two large rocks about 2.5m high by 3m wide and decorated with petroglyphs that represent turtles, fish and the eyes of a tiki, along with human figures. It’s estimated that the valley contains more than 500 other petroglyphs like these. On the other side of the track is the restored tohua Tahakia, one of the biggest in the Marquesas, as well as some pae pae.
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Tohua Koueva
It’s believed that this extensive communal site, with its paved esplanade, belonged to the war chief Pakoko, who was killed by the French in 1845. Today it is a peaceful spot full of massive banyan trees and flowers. All the stone carvings are contemporary. This massive tohua (open-air gathering place) is just over 1.3km up the Pakiu Valley on the Taipivai road, and 700m along a dirt track. Turn east from the main road at the ‘Koueva’ sign.
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Hikokua
One of the most powerful archaeological sites in the Marquesas, Hikokua was discovered by the archaeologist Robert Suggs in 1957 and has been restored and maintained by Hatiheu locals since 1987. It dates from around AD 1250 and was in use until the 1800s. The vast, central, rectangular esplanade ( tohua) was used for dance performances at community festivals. It’s flanked by tiers of small flat basalt blocks that were once used as steps for the spectators. On the terrace stand two modern stone carvings by a local artist, and a flat rock that was used for various purposes, including solo dances and rituals associated with puberty. Near the centre of the esplanade are nine Christian tombs. They probably date from the time of the first missionaries’ arrival, after the abandonment of the site. The platform at the bottom, on the northern side of the esplanade towards the ocean, was the tuu (ceremonial activity centre), upon which sacrifices and displaying of the victims’ bodies took place. The chief’s residence stood at the northeast corner of the esplanade. Hikokua is just off the dirt road, at the entrance to the village.
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Calvaire Cemetery
A must-see for Gauguin and Brel devotees is the Calvaire Cemetery, perched on a hill overlooking Atuona. You will find this frangipani-filled graveyard an appropriately colourful place for Paul Gauguin’s tomb. While most of the tombs are marked with white crosses, Gauguin’s is a simple round stone with his name painted in white. Right behind, a replica of his statue Oviri (meaning ‘wild’) stands guard. Jacques Brel’s grave is a bit below, near the access steps, on the left. The gravestone, lovingly planted with flowers, is adorned with a medallion depicting the singer with his companion, Madly. To get there, head north on the road just east of the gendarmerie (police station). Continue for about 600m until you reach a fork in the road and follow the sign to the cemetery 100m further on. It takes about 20 minutes on foot.
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Paeke
Most tours stop in Taipivai to visit the Paeke archaeological site, which lies on a hillside at the exit of the village on the way to Hatiheu (the path that leads to the site is not signed, so ask around). It features two well-preserved me’ae (traditional sacred sites) flanked by a set of brick-coloured tiki. The me’ae further up the hill has a pit into which human remains were thrown. From the main road, it’s a 20-minute walk uphill on a path.
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Tehueto Petroglyphs
Anyone with an interest in ancient Marquesan civilisation shouldn’t leave Atuona without a visit to the Tehueto petroglyphs. You’ll find a massive rock with prolific carvings on two sides, including stylised human figures. Hidden high up in the Tahauku Valley, the petroglyphs are a good walk from Tahauku Bay (approximately 2.5km inland), but it’s usually quite overgrown and the path is confusing; we suggest hiring a guide (ask at your pension).
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Tiki Moe One
In Hanapaaoa, ask a local to take you to the Tiki Moe One, hidden on a hillside. One of the quirkiest statues in the Marquesas, it features a carved crown around the head and is said to be endowed with a strong mana. It’s modestly sized at under 1m in height. According to legend, the inhabitants used to take it down to the beach every year where they bathed it and coated it with monoi (fragrant oil) before putting it back in place.
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Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin
A homage to Gauguin that traces the artist's life through locally painted reproductions of his art. The main signs are translated into English but the detailed info with tidbits about the individual works, alas, are only in French. The Maison du Jouir (House of Pleasure) is an abandoned-looking replica of Gauguin’s house with a lifelike statue of the artist inside.