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Iipona
Iipona is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia. You’ll be moved by its eeriness and impressed by the five monumental tiki – it pulsates with mana.
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The Marquesas
Grand, brooding and powerful, nature’s fingers have sculpted the Marquesas Islands into sharp silhouettes that jut up dramatically from the cobalt-blue ocean. Waterfalls taller than skyscrapers trickle down vertical canyons, the ocean thrashes towering cliffs, basalt pinnacles project from emerald forests, and scalloped bays are blanketed with desert arcs of white or black sand.
Some of the most inspirational hikes and horseback rides in French Polynesia are found here, allowing walkers and horse riders the opportunity to explore the islands’ rugged interiors. Here the past is almost palpable, thanks to a wealth of archaeological remains dating from pre-European times.
Another highlight is the culture. In everything from cuisine and dances to language and crafts, the Marquesas do feel different from the rest of French Polynesia. But don’t expect turquoise lagoons, swanky resorts and an electric nightlife – the Marquesas are an ecotourist’s dream, not a beach-holiday destination.
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Marquesas.
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Kamuihei, Tahakia & Teiipoka
About 300m towards Taipivai from the Hikokua site, these three connecting sites make up the largest excavated archaeological area of Nuku Hiva. A team led by the archaeologist Pierre Ottino began restoration in 1998. The importance and sheer number of these structures testify to the dense population this valley once sheltered.
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Hikokua
One of the most powerful archaeological sites in the Marquesas, Hikokua was discovered by the archaeologist Robert Suggs in 1957 and has been restored and maintained by Hatiheu locals since 1987. It dates from around AD 1250 and was in use until the 1800s. The vast, central, rectangular esplanade ( tohua) was used for dance performances at community festivals.
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Vaitahu
This tiny village, built against the steep slopes of the central ridge, retains a few vestiges of its stormy past. On the seafront stands a modest memorial topped by a rusty anchor, recalling the first meeting between Admiral Dupetit-Thouars and Chief Iotete in 1838.
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Hanavave
Hanavave boasts a splendid setting, at the mouth of a steep-sided valley, best enjoyed from the sea (lucky yachties!). When the setting sun bounces purple halos off the towering basaltic cones of Baie des Vierges, with a cluster of yachts at anchor, it’s a hallucinatory wonderland.
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Calvaire Cemetery
A must-see for Gauguin and Brel devotees is the Calvaire Cemetery, perched on a hill overlooking Atuona. You will find this frangipani-filled graveyard an appropriately colourful place for Paul Gauguin’s tomb. While most of the tombs are marked with white crosses, Gauguin’s is a simple round stone with his name painted in white. Right behind, a replica of his statue Oviri (meaning ‘wild’) stands guard.
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Omoa
Time moves at a crawl in Omoa. The most striking monument is the Catholic church, with its red roof, white facade and slender spire. It makes a colourful scene on Sunday morning, when it’s bursting at the seams with a devout congregation neatly dressed and belting out rousing himene (hymns).
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Meiaute
High up in the valley of Hane, the site of Meiaute includes three 1m-high, red-tuff tiki that watch over a group of stone structures, pae pae and me’ae, which are partly overgrown. Two of these tiki have projecting ears, one has legs and a phallus, while the other two have only a head and trunk.
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Motu Teuaua
Thousands of kaveka (sooty terns) nest year-round on these islets and lay thousands of eggs daily. Access to Motu Hemeni is prohibited in order to protect the species. Teuaua, the neighbouring islet, is accessible by speedboat when the sea is calm. If the conditions are right (a rarity), you can accompany the islanders when they gather the eggs, which are considered a delicacy.