The Marquesas

Iipona is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in French Polynesia. You’ll be moved by its eeriness and impressed by the five monumental tiki – it pulsates with mana.

Nuku Hiva has a couple of exceptional walks that take in some awe-inspiring viewpoints, without another traveller in sight. A guide is essential because trails are not marked and it’s easy to get lost. All routes have deteriorated in the last few years so be aware that being able to hike anywhere on Nuku Hiva will depend on trail upkeep and the weather (rain will mean mud and slippery terrain).

Tehaatiki Explore the ridges around the southeastern part of Taiohae Bay. There are magnificent views of the bay and the coastline, but few shady areas. About five to six hours, moderate.

Peaks & cliffs near Aakapa & Hatiheu A very scenic hike. Starting from Toovii Plateau, the path snakes its way through a primary forest on the plateau. Right on the plateau rim, the view over the Aakapa peaks and the northern coastline will be etched in your memory forever. It’s mostly flat and shady. Keep an eye out for endemic birds, including the Marquesan imperial pigeon and the white-capped fruit dove. About six hours, moderate.

Big Z An altogether different atmosphere. The western part of the island is barren. Starting from Toovii Plateau at an altitude of about 1000m, you follow a volcanic ridge to the west. Highlights include a lookout over a ‘hidden valley’, featuring snaggle-toothed peaks tangled together. Expect to see wild goats, white-capped fruit doves and white-tailed tropicbirds. No shade, but lots of breeze. About six hours, moderate.

The hike to the Vaipo Waterfall is another stunner. DIYers have two good options for solo walking: Colette Bay and from Hatiheu to Anaho.

For guides, contact the following:

Seeing the island from the saddle is a typical Hiva Oa experience and a low-impact way to imbibe the majestic scenery. A network of trails leading to some of the most beautiful sites can be explored on horseback. Reserve as far in advance as possible.

'Ua Huka is one of the few Pacific islands (Rimatara is the only other inhabited French Polynesian island) not yet colonised by the European rat, which is responsible for destroying much of the endemic birdlife elsewhere. As such, the island is blessed with two birds found nowhere else in the world, the Iphis monarch (Pomarea iphis) and the ultramarine lorikeet (Vini ultramarina). The latter is the most well-known thanks to its stunning blue and green plumage, while the former is a small grey bird that gets much less publicity.

Villagers report seeing more and more of both species in recent years. Fun fact: in order to protect the island from rats, 'Ua Huka has invested in a terrier from New Zealand named Dora who is trained to sniff out vermin as boxes arrive via the supply boat.

'Ua Huka's resident bird expert (and Dora the terrier's adopted mom) Hinapootu Sulpice, in Hokatu doesn't speak English, but she's an excellent source of info in French. All the pensions can also help with birdwatching. The birds are found in valleys around the island but your best bet is the Hokatu Valley at around 5am or 4pm. Sightings are likely any time of year. See also boxed text, Birdwatching in the Marquesas.

The sublime Anaho Bay, on Nuku Hiva’s northeast coast, is an arc of beach framed by surreal green hillsides that's completely disconnected with the outside world. It’s only accessible by speedboat (15 minutes from Hatiheu; 7000 CFP) or a little less than 1½ hours by foot (also from Hatiheu). A few families make their living harvesting copra among the swaying coconut plantations; there is a tiny chapel and not much else. It’s a popular anchorage for visiting yachts and, with the only coral reef on Nuku Hiva, the bay is lagoon-like and inviting. It's no wonder that back in 1888 Robert Louis Stevenson was inspired to write many pages describing its unsettling beauty.

Plenty of day tours go to Anaho, but if you're on your own, take the paved road at the end of Hatiheu up towards the valley. About 300m uphill there’s a small clearing and a well-marked trail to the left. From the Teavaimaoaoa Pass (218m), reached after about 45 minutes, Anaho Bay appears like a mirage. Both the ascent from Hatiheu and descent to Anaho are quite steep, but the track is in good condition and is well marked. Bring mosquito repellent and plenty of water.

If Anaho’s not remote enough for you, head to Haatuatua Bay, a 30-minute stroll to the east, on an easy-to-follow trail. This crescent-shaped bay fringed with a yellow scimitar of sand, framed by lofty volcanic ridges, is the epitome of an island paradise…except for a few wicked nono to bring you back to reality.

Of all the marvels that Nuku Hiva offers, few equal the awe-inspiring majesty of the Hakaui Valley, which slices through the basaltic land mass, west of the island. On either side of the canyon, vertical walls rise to nearly 800m and Vaipo Waterfall, the highest in French Polynesia at 350m, plummets into a natural swimming pool at the end of the valley. In the drier months, the volume of the falls lessens and can be reduced to a mere trickle.

The valley was once the fiefdom of King Te Moana and Queen Vaekehu, and the ancient royal road follows the river past numerous ancient sites, namely pae pae and tohua, hidden behind a tangle of vegetation. Next to the Hakaui Valley, in Hakatea Bay, you’ll find the magnificent Hakatea Beach. Waters are generally calm and good for swimming, but you’ll have to deal with nono (biting flies). Bring lots of repellent.

Marquises Excursions, Nuku Hiva Tours and Thierry Tekuataaoa can arrange guided trips to the waterfall. Expect to pay 14,000 CFP for two people for the full-day excursion without lunch. From Taiohae, it takes about 40 minutes by speedboat to reach Hakatea Bay, where the boat anchors. From the bay, allow about 2½ hours to reach the waterfall on foot. The path is flat and follows the river (be prepared to get wet) and includes stretches of the ancient paved royal road. Note that it’s not advised to walk the last 300m or so because the narrow canyon is subject to falling rocks. Back in Hakatea Bay, you can recharge the batteries on Hakatea Beach before returning to Taiohae.

‘Ua Pou’s geology is fascinating. A collection of 12 pointy pinnacles seem to soar like missiles from the basaltic shield. Almost constantly shrouded in swirling mist and flecked by bright sunlight, they form one of the Marquesas’ most photographed scenes. Completing this natural tableau of otherworldly proportions are a few oasislike valleys bursting with tropical plants, as well as a handful of tempting beaches.

‘Ua Pou’s jewel-like natural setting will frame everything you do here, from hiking and horse riding across the island to visiting secluded hamlets. For culture buffs, the island musters up a handful of powerful archaeological sites.

Just as lush but not as steep, Tahuata is Hiva Oa’s shy little sister. Separated from Hiva Oa by the 4km-wide Bordelais Channel, it is the smallest inhabited island in the archipelago.

Most travellers visit Tahuata on a day tour from Hiva Oa, which is a shame as it deserves a couple of days to do it justice. So stretch that schedule and meet the bone carvers and tattoo artists at work, splash about on a deserted beach and explore the archaeological sites.

As far away from the rest of the world as it’s possible to get in these modern times (despite mobile phones and satellite TVs), Fatu Hiva is a marvellous ‘stop the world and get off’ place. When arriving by boat (there’s no landing strip), expect a visual shock: wrinkled cliffs tumble into the ocean and splendid bays, including the iconic Bay of Virgins, indent the coastline.

There are only two villages, one good pension and one dirt track, so there are plenty of opportunities to move into slow gear. For some cultural sustenance, a couple of giant petroglyphs – the biggest in French Polynesia – hidden in the forest beckon.

It’s a bit challenging to get to Fatu Hiva, but for travellers who relish the idea of being marooned for a few days, this hard-to-reach island way off most people’s radar (bar yachties) is hard to beat.