Village in Fatu Hiva

Time moves at a crawl in Omoa. The most striking monument is the Catholic church, with its red roof, white facade and slender spire. It makes a colourful scene on Sunday morning, when it’s bursting at the seams with a devout congregation neatly dressed and belting out rousing himene (hymns).

Omoa is famous for its two giant petroglyphs, which are in two different locations. The first site is easily accessed after a 10-minute walk from the main road (ask around) and features a huge fish (probably a dorado) as well as a few small anthropomorphic designs inscribed on big basaltic boulders. The second site is a 20-minute walk from Chez Lionel Cantois. It has a clearly outlined whale incised on a big slab – an eerie sight. To get there, you’ll need a guide (Lionel will be happy to show you the site).