Moderna Museet is Stockholm’s modern-art maverick, its permanent collection ranging from paintings and sculptures to photography, video art and installations. Highlights include work by Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí (The Enigma of William Tell), Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst and Robert Rauschenberg (Monograph, affectionately known as 'the goat in a tire'). There are important pieces by Francis Bacon, Marcel Duchamp and Matisse, as well as their Scandinavian contemporaries, and plenty of work by not yet household names.

The museum also stages well-conceived temporary exhibits and career retrospectives (sometimes with a separate admission fee). Don't overlook the small viewing rooms in various corners and downstairs, where you can watch old Buñuel or Chaplin films or newer experimental videos. Bibliophiles and design fans will adore the well-stocked gift shop.

There's a fabulous and very popular restaurant (daily lunch Skr120, 11am to 2pm) with a great view over the water, an espresso bar in the foyer, and a small, casual cafe in a nice secluded courtyard, with salads and sandwiches (Skr115 to Skr125).