Shutterstock / Jon Chica
Cantabria
You can traverse this green-clad region next to Asturias from north to south in an hour. But don’t. For modern travellers, Cantabria offers a bit of everything. The coastline is a sequence of soft cliffs, beautiful beaches and colourful fishing ports; summer seaside days are perfectly possible (unreliable weather permitting). The inland mountains – sliced up by deep, multibranched valleys connected only by steep passes – are sprinkled with sleepy villages and prove a feast for the eyes, whether you drive the country roads or walk the trails.
Lively capital Santander provides a slice of urban life, with buzzing beaches and bodegas. Santillana del Mar and Comillas entice with their medieval and Modernista trappings. The prehistoric art of Altamira, El Castillo and Covalanas caves is some of the oldest and finest in the world, and Cantabria’s rugged ranges culminate in the abrupt mountain walls of the Picos de Europa in the west.
Latest Stories from Cantabria
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Cantabria.
See
Museo de Altamira
The museum’s highlight is the Neocueva, a dazzling, full-sized re-creation of the real Cueva de Altamira’s most interesting chamber, the Sala de Polícromos (Polychrome Hall), with its exquisite, 15,000-year-old ochre-and-black bison paintings created using the natural rock relief. The museum's interesting other displays cover prehistoric humanity and cave art worldwide, from Altamira to Australia. The museum is incredibly popular (277,000 visitors in 2019), so it’s advisable to book well ahead online, especially from Easter to September. Advance tickets are all full price (children, students and seniors included) and are not available for Saturday afternoon or Sunday. Same-day tickets are sold only at the museum ticket office. With all tickets you are assigned a time for entering the museum, and you'll be given your time for the Neocueva (usually about half an hour later) on arrival. Neocueva visits (about 40 minutes) can be guided in Spanish, or unguided.
See
Palacio de Sobrellano
With this marvellous 1888 building, the Marqués de Comillas’ summer palace, Modernista architect Joan Martorell truly managed to out-Gothic real Gothic. The interior can only be seen on 30-minute guided tours (in Spanish), run five to eight times a day: you’ll see the the grand central hall with sweeping carved-stone staircases; a reception/billiard room featuring an ornate wood-carved fireplace with dragons by the young Gaudí; beautiful stained-glass windows; and vibrant original murals detailing the marquis’ story. Martorell also designed the marquis’ majestic family tomb next door, the Capilla-Panteón de Sobrellano, open for 20-minute guided tours in Spanish, starting just after the finish of the Palacio tours.
See
Centro Botín
Santander's newest and splashiest landmark, this ambitious waterfront arts and cultural centre opened to great fanfare in 2017. The futuristic two-block building, designed by Italian Renzo Piano (architect of Paris' Centre Pompidou and London's Shard), is covered in 280,000 ceramic discs. It encompasses 2500 sq metres of gallery space for exhibitions of international contemporary art, along with open-air stairways, a rooftop viewing platform and a bright cafe that's an excellent place to stop for a drink or bite. There's also a small permanent exhibit of 19th- and 20th-century works by Matisse, Bacon and others.
See
Cuevas de Monte Castillo
Of these four World Heritage–listed caves 30km southwest of Santander, two – El Castillo and Las Monedas – are open for 45-minute guided visits (in Spanish). Booking ahead online is highly recommended, especially for the more spectacular El Castillo. As you explore 300m into the cave, you’ll see art almost as breathtaking as that of Cantabria’s famous Cueva de Altamira – and unlike at Altamira, this is the genuine article, not a replica. El Castillo's 275 paintings and engravings of deer, bison, horses, goats, aurochs, handprints, mysterious symbols and a mammoth (very rare) date from around 39,000 to 11,000 BCE. One red symbol, believed to be 40,800 years old, is Europe's oldest known cave art. El Castillo also has exquisite cathedral-like rock formations. Las Monedas contains less art (black animal outlines, from around 10,000 BCE), but has an astounding labyrinth of shimmering stalactites and stalagmites. Five to seven daily buses run from Santander to Puente Viesgo (€2.45, 40 minutes), from where it's a 2km uphill walk or taxi ride to the cave.
See
Capricho de Gaudí
Antoni Gaudí left few reminders of his genius beyond Catalonia, but of them the 1885 Capricho is easily the most flamboyant. This brick building, one of Gaudí’s earliest works and originally a summer playpad for the Marqués de Comillas’ sister-in-law’s brother, is striped all over the outside with ceramic bands of alternating sunflowers and green leaves. The elegant interior is comparatively restrained, with quirky touches including artesonado ceilings (interlaced beams with decorative insertions), stained-glass windows and slim spiral staircases. It’s worth watching the video in the greenhouse/conservatory before you go round inside. In the back garden, a bronze-sculpted Gaudí gazes upon his creation.
See
Playa Oyambre
The 2km-long, soft-blonde Playa Oyambre, 5km west of Comillas, is a sandy dream protected by the Parque Natural Oyambre. It has frequently surfable waves, a couple of campgrounds and a dash of intriguing history as the emergency landing spot of the first ever USA–Spain flight (1929). Waves and wind can be strong: swim only when the green flags fly.
See
Península de la Magdalena
At the eastern tip of the bay, this sprawling parkland is perfect for a stroll, and popular with picnickers. Kids will enjoy the resident seals, sea lions and penguins, and the little train that choo-choos around the headland (adult/child €2.45/1.45). The views of nearby beaches across the crashing sea are sensational.
See
Playa de Sonabia
About 14km east of Laredo, small, wild Playa de Sonabia is tucked into a rock-lined inlet beneath high crags, above which rare griffon vultures circle the sky. Drive through tiny Sonabia village and turn left directly after the church; you’ll have to park up above the beach and walk down. It is accessed by the same minor road used to reach Playa de Oriñón. There are a couple of seasonal bar-restaurants by the car park above Playa de Sonabia.
See
Nacimiento del Río Ebro
The Río Ebro starts life at this tree-shaded spring 5km northwest of Reinosa. It’s a stunningly serene spot, with deep-turquoise water, a tiny shrine and a few ducks splashing around. From here, the Ebro meanders 930km southeast via Logroño (La Rioja) and Zaragoza (Aragón) to meet the Mediterranean in Catalonia.