Wielkopolska

Stroll into Poznań's Old Town square on any evening and you’ll receive an instant introduction to the characteristic energy of Wielkopolska’s capital. The city centre is buzzing at any time of the day, and positively jumping by night, full of people heading to its many restaurants, pubs and clubs. The combination of international business travellers attending its numerous trade fairs and the city's huge student population has created a distinctive vibe quite independent of tourism.

In addition to its energetic personality, Poznań offers many historical attractions – this is, after all, the 1000-year-old birthplace of the Polish nation – and its plentiful transport links make it a great base from which to explore the quieter surrounding countryside.

Biskupin’s re-created Iron Age town site, with its wooden palisades, thatched roofs and costumed historical re-enactors, is a stimulating way to learn about the distant past. The fortified lake town was built about 2700 years ago by a tribe of the Lusatian culture, then rediscovered in 1933 by a school teacher who noticed wooden stakes poking out of the lake. You can either wander through the grounds on your own or organise an English-speaking guide in advance for 150zł.

Gniezno’s history and character are inextricably intertwined with its cathedral, an imposing, double-towered brick Gothic structure. The present church was constructed after the Teutonic Knights destroyed the previous Romanesque cathedral in 1331. Chapels sprouted up around it, and the interior was redecorated in successive styles. After considerable damage in WWII, it was rebuilt according to the original Gothic structure. You can climb the tower for city views. The audio guide takes in the cathedral, tower, crypt and Romanesque bronze doors.

The town of Kórnik, 20km southeast of Poznań, is proof that mad German kings didn’t have a monopoly on eccentric castle design. The highlight of the town is its unconventional castle, originally built by the powerful Górka family in the 15th century. Odd castles aside, the town is a pleasant place to visit, not least because it backs onto a chain of small lakes with promenades and trails, lending a spacious and breezy feel. The provincial atmosphere combined with the lakes and frequent transport connections with Poznań make it a popular day trip from Wielkopolska's capital.

Rogalin, situated some 30km south of Poznań, has an impressive, two-storey baroque palace that was home to Polish aristocratic clan, the Raczyński family. The central structure and two modest symmetrical wings are linked to the main body by curving galleries, forming a giant horseshoe around a vast forecourt. Tours are with multilingual audio guides. Combined tickets also give admission to the London Study, Portrait Gallery, Coach House and Painting Gallery.

For an entertaining day trip on narrow rails, step aboard a train running along this heritage railway. This narrow-gauge line was opened in 1894 to carry sugar beets to the local sugar factory, and also functioned as public transport. The passenger service was cancelled in 1962, but the line lives on as a tourist attraction.