Getty Images/LOOK

Carpathian Mountains

When thinking about Poland, mountains are not usually the first thing to spring to mind, yet the country’s southern border is defined by the beautiful and dramatic Carpathian (Karpaty) chain, the highest mountain range in Central Europe.

Its wooded hills and peaks are a beacon for hikers, cyclists and skiers, and because of the region’s remoteness, this ‘forgotten corner’ has been able to preserve its traditional folkways better than most other parts of the country.

Perhaps best known is the resort of Zakopane in the heart of the Tatra Mountains (Tatry), the highest section of the Polish Carpathians, but the prettiest hills are arguably in the Pieniny or Bieszczady ranges. Elsewhere, a mosaic of undemonstrative towns shelter Unesco-listed wooden churches and provide jumping-off points for a half-dozen national parks. Beyond those, historic regional centres such as Przemyśl, Tarnów and Sanok retell Poland's tumultuous history in time-worn stone.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Carpathian Mountains.

See
Castle Museum
In 1641 Prince Stanisław Lubomirski turned Łańcut's 15th-century fortified manor house into the grand fortress and residence that stands today. Now a museum, it's accessible by guided tour, or with personal audio guides. Among the highlights are the 17th-century Grand Hall, the Renaissance-style Eastern Corridor, the Great Vestibule, the Zodiac Room and the rococo Corner Room. The English-style park makes for delightful rambling, the restored Orchid House is blooming anew, and the stables house a collection of more than 1000 Orthodox icons. You’ll also be shown the Orangery (Oranżeria), with palms and parrots, and a collection of 55 carriages and sleighs in the Coach House, 300m south of the castle. Over the years, the residence has been reshaped and remodelled, gaining rococo and neoclassical elements. The final important alteration, at the end of the 19th century, gave the building its neo-baroque facades. The last private owner, Alfred Potocki, one of the richest men in pre-WWII Poland, accumulated a fabulous collection of art during his tenancy. Shortly before the arrival of the Red Army in July 1944, he loaded 11 railway carriages with the most valuable objects and fled with the collection to Liechtenstein. English-language guides for groups of up to 25 can be prearranged (160zł).
See
Museum of Folk Architecture
Sanok’s Museum of Folk Architecture is Poland’s largest skansen (open-air museum of traditional architecture). You’ll find around 120 historic buildings here and gain insight into the cultures of the nomadic Slavic groups, the Boyks and Lemks. Among the highlights are four timber churches (especially the 1667 St Nicholas'), an early 18th-century synagogue, an inn, a school and even a fire station. It's over the San River from the main town. The museum is laid out loosely according to geography, with each region having its own ethnic identity and style. The interiors of many cottages are furnished and decorated as they once were, while some buildings house exhibitions; one of these features a collection of 200 icons.
See
Historical Museum
Housed in the Renaissance-style castle, this museum is best known for its 700-piece collection of Ruthenian icons. The selection consists of about 260 large pieces dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries, most acquired after WWII from abandoned Uniat churches. The museum’s other treasure is the collection of paintings by Zdzisław Beksiński (1929–2005) on the top floor. Beksiński, who was born in Sanok, was one of Poland’s most remarkable contemporary painters, with a fantastical style all his own. English-language guides can be prearranged for 70zł.
See
Morskie Oko
Perched nearly 1400m above sea level, the emerald-green 'Eye of the Sea' is the largest lake in the Tatras and a popular outing from Zakopane. Minibuses regularly depart from ul Kościuszki, across from the main bus station, for Polana Palenica (10zł, 45 minutes), from where a 9km-long road continues uphill to the lake. Vehicles are not allowed, so you’ll have to walk (about two hours each way) or take a horse-drawn carriage (50zł per person). Travel agencies in town organise day trips.
See
Łańcut Synagogue
Just outside the park surrounding the castle is Łańcut's impressive synagogue, built in the 1760s to replace a 17th-century wooden original destroyed by fire. Saved from destruction during WWII by local grandees the Potocki family, who converted it into a granary, it's since been extensively restored and is one of the most beautiful and significant in the country. It has retained its splendid bimah and much of its original rococo decoration, and some liturgical items are on display.
See
Tatra Park Nature Education Centre
The national park's education centre walks visitors through the natural history of the mountains, including dioramas, interactive displays, kids' activities and a giant model of the Tatras. As numbers are limited to 40 people at a time, you may want to book through the website. Last entry is one hour before closing.
See
Church of the Poor Clares
The Church of the Poor Clares was where Stary Sącz was born. Commenced in Gothic style in 1285 and completed in 1332, it later gained opulent baroque fittings. The traces of its creator, Saint Kinga (1234–92), are clearly visible: the baroque frescoes in the nave depict scenes from her life, and her chapel on the south side boasts a 1470 statue of her on the altar. The pulpit (1671) on the opposite wall is an extraordinary piece of art. Adjacent to the church is the late-Renaissance Convent of the Poor Clares, whose order has resided here continuously since the days of Kinga. Kinga's tomb, in a chapel outside the church, is a significant site of pilgrimage.
See
Synagogue
Lesko's impressive former synagogue is the only one of five to survive WWII. Built in the Mannerist style in the mid-17th century, it has an attached tower – evidence that it was once part of the town’s fortifications. Little of the temple’s original interior decoration has survived, and it now houses a seasonal art gallery, showcasing work from the Bieszczady. In the entryway is a list of towns and shtetls in the region with Jewish populations of more than 100, a poignant reminder of what the make-up of the region was before the Nazis arrived.
See
Old Church & Cemetery
This small wooden church and atmospheric cemetery date from the mid-19th century. The Old Church has charming carved wooden decorations and pews, the Stations of the Cross painted on glass on the windows and an unusual open-fronted confessional. The adjoining cemetery is one of the country's most beautiful, featuring amazing wood-carved headstones, some resembling giant chess pieces. The noted Polish painter and creator of the Zakopane Style, Stanisław Witkiewicz, is buried here beneath a modest wooden grave marker.