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Carpathian Mountains

When thinking about Poland, mountains are not usually the first thing to spring to mind, yet the country’s southern border is defined by the beautiful and dramatic Carpathian (Karpaty) chain, the highest mountain range in Central Europe.

Its wooded hills and peaks are a beacon for hikers, cyclists and skiers, and because of the region’s remoteness, this ‘forgotten corner’ has been able to preserve its traditional folkways better than most other parts of the country.

Perhaps best known is the resort of Zakopane in the heart of the Tatra Mountains (Tatry), the highest section of the Polish Carpathians, but the prettiest hills are arguably in the Pieniny or Bieszczady ranges. Elsewhere, a mosaic of undemonstrative towns shelter Unesco-listed wooden churches and provide jumping-off points for a half-dozen national parks. Beyond those, historic regional centres such as Przemyśl, Tarnów and Sanok retell Poland's tumultuous history in time-worn stone.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Carpathian Mountains.

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Castle Museum
In 1641 Prince Stanisław Lubomirski turned Łańcut's 15th-century fortified manor house into the grand fortress and residence that stands today. Now a museum, it's accessible by guided tour, or with personal audio guides. Among the highlights are the 17th-century Grand Hall, the Renaissance-style Eastern Corridor, the Great Vestibule, the Zodiac Room and the rococo Corner Room. The English-style park makes for delightful rambling, the restored Orchid House is blooming anew, and the stables house a collection of more than 1000 Orthodox icons.
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Krasiczyn Castle
The late-Renaissance 'castle' at Krasiczyn is more of a stately home – ostentation trumped defensive strength when Italian architect Galeazzo Appiani built it between 1592 and 1618 for the wealthy Krasicki family. With its whitewashed walls, turreted towers and spacious, arcaded courtyard, it remains wonderfully photogenic. You can join Polish-language tours to see the interior (English-language tours cost 150zł for groups of at least five and must be booked a day in advance), or just stroll the lovely English-style park outside.
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Museum of Folk Architecture
Sanok’s Museum of Folk Architecture is Poland’s largest skansen (open-air museum of traditional architecture). You’ll find around 120 historic buildings here and gain insight into the cultures of the nomadic Slavic groups, the Boyks and Lemks. Among the highlights are four timber churches (especially the 1667 St Nicholas'), an early 18th-century synagogue, an inn, a school and even a fire station. It's over the San River from the main town.
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Sącz Ethnographic Park
About 3.5km southeast of central Nowy Sącz, this ethnographic park is one of the largest and best skansens in Poland. Houses and other buildings typical of several ethnic cultures from the Carpathian mountains and foothills are displayed. Guides conduct regular Polish-language tours inside the buildings; follow along with The Sącz Ethnographic Park guide, available in English from the skansen shop. There are around 70 buildings and other structures spread over 8 hectares, including a farmhouse, forge and windmill.
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Historical Museum
Housed in the Renaissance-style castle, this museum is best known for its 700-piece collection of Ruthenian icons. The selection consists of about 260 large pieces dating from the 15th to the 18th centuries, most acquired after WWII from abandoned Uniat churches. The museum’s other treasure is the collection of paintings by Zdzisław Beksiński (1929–2005) on the top floor. Beksiński, who was born in Sanok, was one of Poland’s most remarkable contemporary painters, with a fantastical style all his own.
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Underground Tourist Route
Rzeszów’s prime attraction is this 396m-long route linking 25 old cellars beneath the central market square. The circuit took 17 years to complete and restore. The cellars date from the 14th to 18th centuries and reach a depth of up to 10m. The 45-minute guided tours illuminate some of Rzeszów's history through the artefacts displayed, all found down here. Three English-language tours depart daily through the week (11.50am, 2.50pm and 4.50pm), with two on weekends (12.50pm and 2.50pm).
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Morskie Oko
Perched nearly 1400m above sea level, the emerald-green 'Eye of the Sea' is the largest lake in the Tatras and a popular outing from Zakopane. Minibuses regularly depart from ul Kościuszki, across from the main bus station, for Polana Palenica (10zł, 45 minutes), from where a 9km-long road continues uphill to the lake. Vehicles are not allowed, so you’ll have to walk (about two hours each way) or take a horse-drawn carriage (50zł per person).
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Łańcut Synagogue
Just outside the park surrounding the castle is Łańcut's impressive synagogue, built in the 1760s to replace a 17th-century wooden original destroyed by fire. Saved from destruction during WWII by local grandees the Potocki family, who converted it into a granary, it's since been extensively restored and is one of the most beautiful and significant in the country. It has retained its splendid bimah and much of its original rococo decoration, and some liturgical items are on display.
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Tatra Park Nature Education Centre
The national park's education centre walks visitors through the natural history of the mountains, including dioramas, interactive displays, kids' activities and a giant model of the Tatras. As numbers are limited to 40 people at a time, you may want to book through the website. Last entry is one hour before closing.