This archaeological complex consists of the Huaca Prieta site, the recently excavated Moche site of Huaca Cao Viejo with its brilliant mural reliefs, and Huaca el Brujo, which is only starting to be excavated. The complex is 60km from Trujillo on the coast and is hard to find without a guide. It’s technically not open to the public as there is little to see so far, but tour agencies in Trujillo can arrange a visit to the area on request.

Reaching the complex on your own is complicated. The safest route is catching a bus in Trujillo bound for Chocope (S3.50, 1½ hours) from Ovalo del Papa southwest of town. Switch for a colectivo to Magdalena de Cao (S2.50, 20 minutes), where you’ll need to negotiate with a mototaxi to take you to and from the site with waiting time. There is very little public transport out this way.