Papua New Guinea

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Port Moresby Nature Park

At the northern end of Waigani Dr, by the University of Papua New Guinea, this is an island of calm. More than 2km of walkways thread under and through the jungle canopy, with well-maintained gardens displaying both local and exotic plant species, including native and hybrid orchids. The trees are alive with the clamour of fruit bats, and wildlife displays include tree kangaroos, hornbills, cassowaries, and a large aviary that houses parrots and birds of paradise. Take public motor vehicle (PMV) 9.

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National Museum & Art Gallery

This superb museum, beautifully remodelled for the country's 40th anniversary of independence, is the best introduction you can get to Papua New Guinea's rich indigenous culture. Subtly lit exhibits are divided by theme: musical instruments, body adornments, ceremonial kundu and garamut drums, seafaring equipment (including a magnificent Milne Bay outrigger canoe decorated in large cowrie shells and ornate canoe splashboards), elaborate masks and vast totem poles from the Sepik are all present and correct. Take your time. See if you can spot an agiba (skull rack), yam cult masks, kina shell money, a kawarigit (carved ceremonial stool from the Sepik), bark cloth masks and colourful shields from New Britain and headgear featuring bird-of-paradise feathers. Other displays cover the geography, fauna, culture, ethnography and history of PNG.

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Varirata National Park

Right after the small store at Laloki River Gorge is the turn-off to Varirata National Park which, at 1000 hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight of the Sogeri Rd. It's 8km from the turn-off and you'll find several clearly marked walking trails among the pine trees, ranging from 45 minutes to three hours long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port Moresby and the coast. Birdwatchers may spot such feathered highlights as kingfishers and Raggiana birds of paradise. It's possible to camp here, but unless you're in a large group, it's potentially unsafe. The best place is on the grass outside the derelict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the ranger-in-charge (if you can find him!).

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Asaro Mudmen

Asaro village, northwest of Goroka, is famous for its mudmen – warriors who traditionally covered themselves in grey mud and wore huge mud masks before heading off on raids. It’s a very striking image, best witnessed in a village setting rather than one of the big shows. The Asaro men re-create the scene for tourists; the number of mudmen in direct proportion to the number of kina-paying tourists. Local tour companies can arrange mudmen tours.

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Yuo Island

This small island has delightful picture-perfect beaches under coconut trees, a couple of decent waves if you bring your own surfboard and paddle out to sea, and super-clean water for snorkelling. It's about 20 minutes from Wewak by motor boat, arrange a pick up with the guesthouse owner.

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Vision City

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Family Beach

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Machine Gun Beach

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Haus Tambarans

There are numerous villages around Maprik, many with a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran, an architectural style echoed in such modern buildings as Parliament House in Port Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus tambarans are brightly painted in browns, ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases reach 30m high. Without your own vehicle getting to the various villages can be problematic. Speak to the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to arrange an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man's domain, but these days the rules are usually bent for Western travellers. Locals usually charge to enter and a photography fee. There isn't much to see inside anymore, most of the art having been sold to collectors decades ago. The tunnel-like entrance at the front is reserved for ceremonies; you'll be asked to enter by a door at the back. Yams are a staple food in this region. Harvesting entails considerable ritual and you may see yam festivals during the July or August harvest time. Woven fibre masks are used in ceremonies where yams are decorated to resemble people. Interesting back roads connect villages between Maprik and Lumi, some with spectacular haus tambarans and good carvings. You can walk between these villages. Ask permission before entering a village and then see the bigman (local leader).