Matt Munro
Papua New Guinea
Latest Stories from Papua New Guinea
Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Papua New Guinea.
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Port Moresby Nature Park
At the northern end of Waigani Dr, by the University of Papua New Guinea, this is an island of calm. More than 2km of walkways thread under and through the jungle canopy, with well-maintained gardens displaying both local and exotic plant species, including native and hybrid orchids. The trees are alive with the clamour of fruit bats, and wildlife displays include tree kangaroos, hornbills, cassowaries, and a large aviary that houses parrots and birds of paradise. Take public motor vehicle (PMV) 9.
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National Museum & Art Gallery
This superb museum, beautifully remodelled for the country's 40th anniversary of independence, is the best introduction you can get to Papua New Guinea's rich indigenous culture. Subtly lit exhibits are divided by theme: musical instruments, body adornments, ceremonial kundu and garamut drums, seafaring equipment (including a magnificent Milne Bay outrigger canoe decorated in large cowrie shells and ornate canoe splashboards), elaborate masks and vast totem poles from the Sepik are all present and correct. Take your time. See if you can spot an agiba (skull rack), yam cult masks, kina shell money, a kawarigit (carved ceremonial stool from the Sepik), bark cloth masks and colourful shields from New Britain and headgear featuring bird-of-paradise feathers. Other displays cover the geography, fauna, culture, ethnography and history of PNG.
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Varirata National Park
Right after the small store at Laloki River Gorge is the turn-off to Varirata National Park which, at 1000 hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight of the Sogeri Rd. It's 8km from the turn-off and you'll find several clearly marked walking trails among the pine trees, ranging from 45 minutes to three hours long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port Moresby and the coast. Birdwatchers may spot such feathered highlights as kingfishers and Raggiana birds of paradise. It's possible to camp here, but unless you're in a large group, it's potentially unsafe. The best place is on the grass outside the derelict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the ranger-in-charge (if you can find him!).
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Asaro Mudmen
Asaro village, northwest of Goroka, is famous for its mudmen – warriors who traditionally covered themselves in grey mud and wore huge mud masks before heading off on raids. It’s a very striking image, best witnessed in a village setting rather than one of the big shows. The Asaro men re-create the scene for tourists; the number of mudmen in direct proportion to the number of kina-paying tourists. Local tour companies can arrange mudmen tours.
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Yuo Island
This small island has delightful picture-perfect beaches under coconut trees, a couple of decent waves if you bring your own surfboard and paddle out to sea, and super-clean water for snorkelling. It's about 20 minutes from Wewak by motor boat, arrange a pick up with the guesthouse owner.
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Haus Tambarans
There are numerous villages around Maprik, many with a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran, an architectural style echoed in such modern buildings as Parliament House in Port Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus tambarans are brightly painted in browns, ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases reach 30m high. Without your own vehicle getting to the various villages can be problematic. Speak to the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to arrange an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man's domain, but these days the rules are usually bent for Western travellers. Locals usually charge to enter and a photography fee. There isn't much to see inside anymore, most of the art having been sold to collectors decades ago. The tunnel-like entrance at the front is reserved for ceremonies; you'll be asked to enter by a door at the back. Yams are a staple food in this region. Harvesting entails considerable ritual and you may see yam festivals during the July or August harvest time. Woven fibre masks are used in ceremonies where yams are decorated to resemble people. Interesting back roads connect villages between Maprik and Lumi, some with spectacular haus tambarans and good carvings. You can walk between these villages. Ask permission before entering a village and then see the bigman (local leader).
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Parliament Haus
The main Parliament Haus building is in the style of a Maprik- or Sepik-style haus tambaran, while the attached, circular cafeteria follows Highland design principles and a mosaic features unmistakably PNG motifs. The cavernous lobby is entered through doors whose handles are stylised kundu drums (an hourglass-shaped drum with lizard skin). Inside, a towering wood carving represents the four regions of PNG. The receptionists are usually happy to walk and talk you through the building’s design and history. Tucked away, several glass displays showcase the nation’s wondrous insect life, including the native Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing (the world’s largest butterfly, with a 30cm wingspan). It’s possible to visit the chamber and witness parliament when it’s sitting. A taxi from Boroko costs about K40 or K50 from Town. Alternatively, take a PMV along Waigani Dr, get out at the white, empty Pineapple Building, and walk about 2km northeast.
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memorial to Christopher Robinson
The main thing to do on Samarai is just wander around soaking up the faded-glory. From the wharf, head toward the hill and, at the northeast corner of the sportsground, you'll pass the memorial to Christopher Robinson, the one-time administrator who committed suicide in 1904. The inscription notes he was 'as well meaning as he was unfortunate and as kindly as he was courageous' and that 'his aim was to make New Guinea a good place for white men.' Near the southeast corner of the grounds, a road leads up to the abandoned hospital and, just north of here, a small hill with great views of the island and China Strait. Near the sportsground, and south of the wharf is Samarai's oldest-surviving building, the Anglican church.
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Rainforest Habitat
Most people come to see a microcosm of PNG’s marvellous flora and fauna, including birds of paradise, cassowaries and tree kangaroos; although the real star is ‘Agro’, the huge and largely inactive saltwater crocodile.The habitat comprises about 3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest inside a walk-through aviary, plus a number of smaller enclosures. Unfortunately it is all rather neglected with collapsing walkways and derelict enclosures. Clearly it has seen better times. To get there, take a Unitech public motor vehicle (PMV) from Eriku and ask to be let off at Gate No 2. Otherwise, it's a 15-minute walk from the main gate.
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