Cherished as Panama's cultural heart and soul, the Península de Azuero is a farming and ranching hub. The area's rolling hills are matched by a long and lovely coastline. Over time the peninsula has seen stark transformations – from verdant rainforest to cattle country, from indigenous land to Spanish stronghold and, finally, from a quiet town to surf central and one of Panama’s travel hot spots.
The passage of time here is a countdown to the next festival, be it Carnaval, La Mejorana or Corpus Christi. Costumes range from swirling devils and dragons to curtsying reinas (queens) in traditional lace finery. Joining the throngs for these celebrations is a first-rate introduction to Panama.
Península de Azuero consists of three provinces: Herrera, Los Santos and a slice of Veraguas.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Península de Azuero.
Church
On the east side of Plaza Simón Bolívar, this national treasure was consecrated in 1782, although the foundation stone had been laid more than two centuries earlier. It’s a wonderful example of the baroque style, with lots of intricately carved and gilded wood depicting cherubs, saints, plants and flowers. Almost everything is original, including the six side altars; some objects predate the church itself.
Wildlife Reserve
Isla Cañas is one of a handful of places that olive ridley sea turtles nest in high numbers (the others are two beaches on the Pacific side of Costa Rica and two beaches in Orissa on the Bay of Bengal in India). Endangered species including the hawksbill, loggerhead sea, leatherback and green turtle nest here too. The turtles nest from July through early November, though peak months are usually September and October.
Workshop
Macario José Rodriguez has been restoring the wooden altars and statuary of Panama’s colonial churches since the early 1980s, and this is the only such workshop in the country. You'll find it opposite Parita's church on the main square and just behind the green Servicios Médicos building. Visitors are more than welcome.
Wildlife Reserve
This 53-hectare reserve is centered on a deserted island ringed by corals. The water is shallow enough for snorkeling and, as elsewhere in the Pacific, the reef fish here are enormous. You can get here by boat (US$70) in 40 minutes from Playa El Arenal, a beach 3km northeast of Pedasí's gas station. Stick to the beaten paths on the island as unexploded ordnance is occasionally discovered here (the US Navy used the island for target practice during WWII).
Museum
This small museum, housed in a lovely two-story colonial building, contains many well-preserved pieces of pottery dating from 5000 BC until the Spanish conquest; some of it was found at excavation sites outside Parita. There are also replicas of huacas (golden objects placed with indigenous peoples at the time of burial) found on the peninsula – the originals are in the Smithsonian in Washington DC – as well as a recreated chieftain's tomb from the 1st century BC.
Church
This 18th-century churrigueresque (an ornate Spanish baroque style) church has some lovely carvings; check out the pulpit and the retablo (altarpiece). It is the only church in Panama that has its steeple located directly over its entrance rather than over a corner of the structure. This is very unusual as bell towers are always extremely heavy, and therefore are generally built on pillars that rest upon a massive foundation.
Museum
This modest museum, on the north side of Plaza Simón Bolívar, occupies the former house where Panama’s Declaration of Independence was signed in 1821. Pre-Columbian ceramics and colonial-era religious art comprise most of the exhibits, though obviously there's a fair amount on Los Santos' role in the independence movement. In an outbuilding in the lovely garden courtyard out the back is a restored cocina típica (traditional kitchen).
Workshop
One of Panama's top artisans, Dario López has been making colorful masks for folkloric dancers since the 1960s. These days most of his masks and satin costumes worn by devil dancers are exported to the USA and Europe. Masks typically cost between US$20 and US$100. To visit his home workshop, look for the gas station near the Parita turnoff on Carretera Nacional. His house is green and on the east side of the highway about 100m north of the station.
Workshop
Master mask-maker Carlos Ivan de Leon creates the most elaborate and frightening masks in Panama at his house just after Calle Segundo Villareal. He specializes in devil masks for the famous baile de los diablos sucios (dance of the dirty devils).