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One of the world’s richest biomes is the 2240-sq-mile (5790-sq-km) Parque Nacional Darién, where the primeval meets the present with scenery nearly unaltered from one million years ago. Even today in the Darién, the Emberá and Wounaan people maintain many of their traditional practices and retain generations-old knowledge of the rainforest.
Cruising the waterways and hiking trails are the only ways to explore the slow-paced interior of Darién and the Pacific coast, where Emberá, Wounaan and Afro-Panamanians coexist.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Darién Province.
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On the southern shore of the Golfo de San Miguel, this 263-sq-km wildlife reserve is owned by the private conservation group ANCON. It contains species-rich primary and secondary forest and is one of the best places in the country to spot a harpy eagle, Panama's national bird. Even if the big bird proves elusive, there's a good chance of seeing everything from three-toed sloths and capybaras, the world's largest rodents, to jaguars.
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Traveling the wide and very brown Sambú River is a memorable experience: you'll glide past spectacular mangroves – five of the world's seven known species grow here – deep jungle and, beyond Sambú and Puerto Indio, traditional villages. A trip up the Sambú is a real adventure, something that may not be possible anywhere in the tropics 50 years from now. Even if you traveled deep into the Amazon, you'd be hard-pressed to find such wilderness.
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On the south side of Lago Bayano, the Bayano Caves are a fun adventure. Cavers wade up Río Tigre though a sculpted Paleolithic cavern that is 850m long and full of bats and amphibians. Depending on water levels, it might be necessary to swim. Exploring the cave requires round-trip boat transportation, a guide, headlamps and helmets. Contact Igua's Tours in Panama City or local operators Bayano Tour or Panama Caves for the full package.
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From Sambú, visitors can cross the Río Sábalo Bridge to the twin village of Puerto Indio (with permission from the Emberá and Wounaan) and visit petroglyphs or mangrove forests. The village stands in stark contrast to 'built-up' Sambú, with thatched houses on stilts surrounding a large grassy football pitch.
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This waterfall and its crystal-clear pool is a welcome relief after a hot and sweaty climb to spot harpy eagles.
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This wonderful waterfall that the agile can slide down can be reached in 45 minutes from Pijibasal.
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Just across the Golfo de San Miguel on Isla El Encanto are the ruins of the Fort of St Lawrence slowing being consumed by the jungle. There's not much more here than a 10m-tall watchtower with arrow slits, but it once played an important role in safeguarding the gold mines at Cana to the south. You'll almost certainly see dolphins frolicking in the bay from the boat (US$15) as you cross.
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Yaviza's only real 'sight' (apart from the wobbly footbridge spanning the Río Chucunaque), the ruined Fort of St Geronimo, built by the Spanish to keep pirates (and buccaneers and privateers and corsairs) at bay looks out at the confluence of the Ríos Chico and Chucunaque southeast of the center.
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This Emberá village south of Sambú is worth visiting. Get here by public bus (US$1), which runs along the paved road leading south from town between 6am and 8pm.