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The Terai & Mahabharat Range

When you think of Nepal, it's usually the northern half that comes to mind, the extraordinary, world-famous Himalaya. But what about the southern half of the country? Most of it is the very opposite, a hot, subtropical plain known as the Terai, which stretches north from the border with India. The Mahabharat Range and Chure Hills stand in the middle, as if mediating between snow-capped peaks and a flat horizon.

For the traveler, this area has a split personality. From west to east, the Terai offers a succession of beautiful and well-managed national parks: Sukla Phanta, Bardia, Chitwan and Koshi Tappu. Meanwhile, the major population centres do not have the same sense of calm, with broken, trash-strewn streets, haphazard construction and an omnipresent cloud of dust. The people are as cheery as ever, but mountain villages aside, the cities of the Terai are mainly transit points to the national parks, India or somewhere else.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The Terai & Mahabharat Range.

  • See

    Maya Devi Temple

    The spiritual heart of Lumbini, Maya Devi Temple marks the spot where Queen Maya Devi gave birth to Siddhartha Gautama in around 563BC. In the adjoining sacred garden you’ll find the pillar of Ashoka, ancient ruins of stupas, and maroon- and saffron-robed monks congregating under a sprawling Bodhi (pipal) tree decorated with prayer flags. Buy your entrance ticket 50m north of the gate to the Sacred Garden, and remove your shoes at the gate. Excavations carried out in 1992 revealed a succession of ruins dating back at least 2200 years, including a commemorative stone on a brick plinth, matching the description of a stone laid down by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC. There are plans to raise a grand monument on the site, but for now a sturdy brick pavilion protects the temple ruins. You can walk around the ruins on a raised boardwalk. The focal point for pilgrims is a sandstone carving of the birth of the Buddha, reputedly left here by the Malla king, Ripu Malla, in the 14th century, when Maya Devi was worshipped as an incarnation of the Hindu mother goddess. The carving has been worn almost flat by centuries of veneration, but you can just discern the shape of Maya Devi grasping a tree branch and giving birth to the Buddha, with Indra and Brahma looking on. Directly beneath this is a marker stone encased within bulletproof glass, which pinpoints the spot where the Buddha was born. The sacred pond beside the temple is believed to be where Maya Devi bathed before giving birth to the Buddha. Dotted around the grounds are the ruined foundations of a number of brick stupas and monasteries dating from the 2nd century BC to the 9th century AD.

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    World Peace Pagoda

    Located outside the main compound, but easily accessible by bike, the impressive gleaming-white World Peace Pagoda, one of the world's greatest stupas, was constructed by Japanese Buddhists at a cost of US$1 million. The shining golden statue depicts the Buddha in the posture he assumed when he was born. Near the base of the stupa is the grave of a Japanese monk murdered by anti-Buddhist extremists during the construction of the monument.

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    Cambodian Monastery

    With strong touches of Angkor Wat, this colourful fantasy due for completion in 2018 is already one of the most fascinating temples in Lumbini. The temple is surrounded by a square railing topped off by four 50m green snakes whose tails entwine at the corners. The compound itself has a vast outer wall decorated with intricate designs.

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    Royal Thai Buddhist Monastery

    Close to the north end of the pond, this stunning and imposing wat (Thai-style monastery) is built from gleaming white marble. The blue-roofed meditation centre next door is another fine piece of architecture. Arguably the greatest compound in the monastic zone.

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    Zhong Hua Chinese Buddhist Monastery

    This elegant monastery is one of the most impressive structures at Lumbini. Reached through a gateway flanked by dogs of Fo, the elegant pagoda-style monastery looks like a small Forbidden City. Its perfectly manicured internal courtyard is an oasis of peace.

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    Janaki Mandir

    At the heart of Janakpur lies the marble Janaki Mandir, one of the grander pieces of architecture in Nepal, and the city's must-see sight. Built in extravagant baroque Mughal style, the temple is dedicated to Sita, the wife of Rama and heroine of the Ramayana. It’s believed to stand on the spot where King Janak found the infant Sita lying in the furrow of a ploughed field. A steady stream of pilgrims file in through the gatehouse to worship the Sita statue in the inner sanctum. The temple is particularly popular with women, who wear their best and most colourful saris for the occasion. Early evening is the most atmospheric time to visit, as the temple is draped with colourful lights and pilgrims arrive en masse. You never know what you might see here! The temple only dates from 1910, but with its white marble arches, domes, turrets and screens, it feels much older. At the back of the complex is a small museum (admission Rs 15) with some amusingly retro moving statues telling the story of Rama and Sita.

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    Daman Mountain Resort View Tower

    Some of the best views of the Himalaya in Nepal can be had from the concrete viewing tower inside the Daman Mountain Resort. Unfortunately, the resort has closed and is seeking a new owner, but the viewing tower is still open. If no one is present at the small ticket office, which will likely be the case, just walk up.

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    Myanmar Golden Temple

    The Myanmar Golden Temple is one of the oldest structures in the compound. There are three prayer halls – the most impressive is topped by a corncob-shaped shikhara (tower), styled after the temples of Bagan. Also within the temple grounds is the Lokamani Pula Pagoda, a huge gilded stupa in the southern Burmese style, inspired by the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon.

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    Korean Buddhist Temple

    At the time of research, the government of South Korea was finishing up this massive temple. The interior is magnificent; you might find workers still painting its intricate ceiling, which will take over a year to complete.