The Rocade (coastal road) from Al Hoceima to Nador (81 miles/130km) is a delight to travel. It passes through red cliffs, verdant gorges and, midway, an enormous sculpture of deeply eroded hills.
Within 37 miles (60km) of Nador there are several clifftop cafes that are perfect for a mint tea as you gaze out over the sea. A few of the beaches tucked into coves have restaurants.
In Nador, the corniche by the lagoon is pleasant to walk on, but everything feels on hold until the new development on the outskirts at Marchica is completed – currently an endless sprawl of concrete. The city is a decent transport hub, with an airport, a ferry port and a train station that has a service to Fez.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Nador.