This curious village is worth a trip for its troglodyte houses built into the picturesque mountainside and picked out in pastel hues of pink, yellow and blue. The cave dwellings date back to the 4th century and for hundreds of years have been inhabited by shepherds to protect against the elements. Some villagers go so far as to use caves for the primary room of the house. The result is a cool, spacious room, usually used as a salon, while bedrooms and private areas are built above.
The hassle often experienced in larger towns is entirely absent here: people are incredibly friendly, and local women are often found sitting out on the streets making woven buttons for djellabas (Morocco's long traditional hooded capes) – one of the village's main industries. Bhalil has an excellent local guesthouse and can make a refreshing break from the big-city hustle of Fez.