Shutterstock

Western Central Highlands

Welcome to the Mexico of your imagination! Many of the elements that define the image of Mexico worldwide originated in the western central highlands amid slumbering volcanoes, sun-drenched avocado plantations and some of the country’s finest 'undiscovered’ pre-Hispanic ruins. Those looking for a bit of local flavor can sip the world’s best tequila in a sea of blue agave, listen to mariachi music in the region of its birth or be awed by the twin-towered magnificence of Morelia’s cathedral.

Less obvious (and visited) is Lago de Pátzcuaro, where the indigenous Purépecha people display their craft-making skills and observe some of the most chilling Day of the Dead rituals in the land.

Among the region’s natural wonders, Volcán Paricutín is a climbable volcano that burst out of a corn field in 1943, while the Reserva Mariposa Monarca is a swath of coniferous-covered highlands visited annually by millions of monarch butterflies.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Western Central Highlands.

See
Reserva de la Biósfera Santuario Mariposa Monarca
In the eastern-most corner of Michoacán, straddling the border of México state, lies the incredible 563-sq-km Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, a Unesco World Heritage site since 2008. Every autumn, from late October to early November, millions of monarch butterflies begin to flock to these forested Mexican highlands for their winter hibernation, having flown all the way from the Great Lakes region of the US and Canada, some 4500km away. The butterflies arrive in waves, the last remaining until early to mid-March, when they begin their return journey north. As the butterflies close in on their destination, they gather in gentle swarms, crossing highways and fluttering up steep mountainsides where they cling together in clusters that weigh down thick branches of the oyamel (Abies religiosa or `sacred fir') trees. When the sun rises and warms the forest, they take to the sky in gold and orange flurries, descending to the humid forest floor for the hottest part of the day. The best time to see them is on a warm, sunny afternoon when they carpet the ground brilliantly – they don’t fly as much in cool weather (55 degrees or lower). Note that the entrance fee includes a mandatory guide, who works for tips; the minimum recommended amount is M$220 per guide per day.
See
Instituto Cultural de Cabañas
Standing proudly at the eastern end of dramatic Plaza Tapatía is one of Guadalajara’s architectural landmarks, and a Unesco World Heritage site since 1997. On the ceiling and inside the dome of the striking neoclassical Capilla Mayor (Main Chapel) is a most unexpected series of modernist murals by José Clemente Orozco, which rank among his best works and Guadalajara's top sights. The complex also houses a collection of 340 other pieces by Orozco, and works by leading lights of Mexico's contemporary art scene. The beautiful building, which consists of a labyrinth of hidden arched courtyards and exhibition spaces, was founded by Bishop don Juan Cruz Ruiz de Cabañas and designed by Spanish architect Manuel Tolsá between 1805 and 1810. Its original purpose was as an orphanage and home for invalids, and it remained so for 150 years, housing 500 children at one time. From 1937 to 1939, Orozco, one of the 'Big Three' of the Mexican muralist movement, channeled the archetypal struggle for freedom into 57 magnificent murals that now decorate the domed chapel at the center of the complex. Widely regarded as Orozco’s finest works, they depict pre-Hispanic Jalisco and the conquest, presented through dark, unnerving and distinctly modern images of fire, armor, broken chains, blood and prayer. Given the time frame, the works almost certainly serve as a warning against fascism and any force that subverts humanity to cultivate power. Conveniently placed benches allow you to lie down and inspect the works more easily. Free tours of the institute in a half-dozen languages (including English) depart regularly. A hands-on Orozco exhibit and a DIY art space keep kids happy and engaged.
See
Volcán Paricutín
The upstart Volcán Paricutín (2800m) might be less than 80 years old, but clambering up the volcanic scree slopes to its summit and looking out across blackened, village-engulfing lava fields will be a highlight of your travels in this part of Mexico. You can trek to it on horseback or on foot, though the final ascent is always by foot. Whatever you choose, prepare for a long but rewarding day. The story behind this volcano is as extraordinary as the views from its summit. On February 20, 1943, Dionisio Pulido, a Purépecha farmer, was ploughing his cornfield some 40km west of Uruapan when the ground began to quake and spurt steam, sparks and hot ash. The farmer struggled to cover the blast holes, but he quickly realized his futility and ran for safety. It was a good thing, because like some Hollywood B-grade movie, a growling volcano began to rise from the bowels of the earth. Within a year it had reached an elevation of 410m above the rolling farmland and its lava had flooded the Purépecha villages of San Salvador Paricutín and San Juan Parangaricutiro. Thankfully, the lava flowed slowly, giving the villagers plenty of time to escape. The volcano continued to grow until 1952. Today its large black cone spits warm steam in a few places, but otherwise it appears dormant. Near the edge of the 20-sq-km lava field, the belfry of the swamped Templo de San Juan Parangaricutiro protrudes eerily from a sea of black lava; it and the altar awash in colorful offerings of candles and flowers are the only visible traces of the two buried villages. It’s a one-hour (3km) walk to the church from Angahuan. You should be striding out of Angahuan before 9am if you want to climb Volcán Paricutín comfortably. There's no shortage of guides with horses at the tourist center offering their services to the volcano and back via the ruined church, and they will meet you at the bus from Uruapan. Horses and a guide should cost around M$500 in total per person per day. There are two standard routes up the volcano: a 14km round-trip short route and a 24km round-trip long route. Horses always go via the long route as the short route crosses a lava field. If you're going by horse allow five to six hours (including at least four in an unforgiving, wooden saddle). Whichever route you take, the final scramble up the volcano – a half-hour steep grunt through gravel and unstable rock – is on foot. Coming down is a different matter altogether; sliding down smooth black sand you’ll be on terra firma in two minutes. The standard route visits the San Juan church on the way back. The altar is almost always blessed with colorful offerings of candles and flowers. Close to the church are a number of food stalls serving fabulously tasty blue-corn quesadillas cooked on old, wood-burning, oil-can skillets. Bring enough water and wear decent shoes. If wooden saddles intimidate you and/or you have energy to burn, you can walk to the volcano, but you’ll still need a guide (M$400) as the trail through the pine forest can be hard to follow. The long route follows a sandy track for around 12km through avocado groves, agave fields and wildflowers. The short route (7km one way) starts in pine forest but then switches to difficult rock-hopping across an expansive lava field. If you're fit and want variety, ask your guide to hike out on the short route and back on the longer trek.
See
Catedral de Guadalajara
Guadalajara’s cathedral is the city’s most conspicuous landmark with distinctive neo-Gothic towers built after an earthquake toppled the originals in 1818. Begun in 1561 and consecrated in 1618, the building is almost as old as the city itself. Time your visit right and you’ll see light filter through stained-glass of the Last Supper above the altar and hear a working pipe organ rumble sweetly from the rafters. The interior includes a Gothic crypt, where three archbishops are buried, plus massive Tuscan-style gold-leaf pillars and 11 richly decorated side altars that were bequeathed to the city by King Fernando VII of Spain (1784–1833). The 18th-century glass case nearest the west entrance is an extremely popular reliquary, containing the waxed remains of the martyred Santa Inocencia. In the sacristy, which an attendant can open for you on request, is La Asunción de la Virgen, painted by Spanish artist Bartolomé Murillo in 1650. Much like the city's Palacio de Gobierno, the cathedral is a bit of a stylistic hodgepodge, including baroque, Churrigueresque (late Spanish baroque) and neoclassical influences.
See
Guachimontones Archaeological Site
Just 40km west of Guadalajara is the fascinating and distinctive archaeological site known as Guachimontones – one of the only ancient ruins in the world whose structures were built in nearly perfect concentric circles, including a massive conical step pyramid. Easy to reach as a day trip, the site has well-preserved structures, an excellent museum, and knowledgeable (and free) guide services. Occupied between 300BC and 350AD by the Teuchitlán people, Guachimontones is believed to have been a spiritual center, used mostly for rituals honoring Ehecatl, the god of wind. There were 10 circular complexes in all, surrounding the imposing central pyramid. A hole at the top of the pyramid is thought to have been used to hold a pole that priests would suspend themselves from, simulating the flight of a bird. The ruins are perched on a verdant hill overlooking the village of Teuchitlán and La Vega dam. Three of the 10 complexes are visible and fully excavated, while the main pyramid is a truly arresting sight: perfectly circular, with curving moss-covered steps rising some 18 meters (60 feet); you’re not allowed to climb to the top, unfortunately. Two ball courts, two long plazas and several structures still to be excavated complete the site. The site’s modern museum – also circular in shape – provides an excellent overview of the ruins and the people who worshipped here. Jewelry, pottery, obsidian tools, and other artifacts are on display, as is a re-creation of the shaft tombs found under some of the structures. Several hands-on exhibits will keep young visitors engaged, and there’s a surprisingly good introductory film, available in Spanish, English and French. Tours of the ruins are offered hourly between 10am and 1pm. Guides are knowledgeable and experienced; English and French spoken. Guides also lead tours through the museum every 30 to 60 minutes, depending on numbers. To get here from Guadalajara, take a bus to Teuchitlán (M$120, two hours, hourly from 6am to 9pm) from the Antigua Central Camionera. From the village, a taxi to the ruins costs M$60.
See
Morelia Cathedral
Morelia’s cathedral, considered by many to be the country's most beautiful, dominates the city center, where it flanks rather than faces the central plaza. It took almost a century to build (1660−1744), which explains its potpourri of styles: the twin 70m-high bell towers, for instance, have classical Herreresque bases, baroque midsections and multicolumned neoclassical tops. It's particularly impressive when lit up for the Encendido de Catedral. Much of the baroque reliefs inside were replaced in the 19th century with neoclassical work. Fortunately, one of the highlights was preserved: a sculpture of the crucified Christ called the Señor de la Sacristía in a chapel to the left of the main altar. It is made from pasta de caña (a paste made from the heart of the cornstalk) and is topped with a gold crown gifted to the church by the Spanish King Felipe II in the 16th century. The organ counts 4600 pipes – the second largest pipe organ in Mexico (the first is in Zamora, Michoacán); occasional organ recitals take place here – a beautiful time to be in the cathedral.
See
Basílica de Zapopan
One of the city's most important churches, the Basílica de Zapopan, built in 1730, is home to Nuestra Señora de Zapopan, a petite statue of the Virgin visited by pilgrims year-round. Since 1734 on October 12, thousands of kneeling faithful crawl behind as the statue is carried here from Guadalajara cathedral. The kneeling pilgrims then make the final trek up the basilica’s aisle to pray for favors at the altar. The early evening, when streams of pilgrims, nuns and monks fill the pews, is a magical time to be here. During the rest of the year, the basílica is lit up on Friday and Saturday evenings at 9pm with a 'video mapping' show – a gorgeous 3D light and sound display projected onto the facade of the church, sharing the history of Zapopan and the edifice itself. It draws crowds of locals and travelers alike (plus loads of street food vendors).
See
Tonalá Street Market
On Thursday and Sunday, Tonalá bursts into a huge street market that sprouts on Avenida Tonaltecas and crawls through dozens of streets and alleys and takes hours to explore. With torta (sandwich), taco and michelada (beer and tomato juice) stands aplenty, the whole area takes on a carnival vibe. The best pieces are usually found at the workshops and warehouses, though a little perseverance often renders one-of-a-kind finds.
See
Antiguo Convento Franciscano de Santa Ana
South of the lake and just west of Hwy 120 lies this enormous religious compound built partly with stones from the Purépecha yácatas (temples) taken from the site up the hill. This is where Franciscan monks began the Spanish missionary effort in Michoacán in the 16th century. The complex is composed of two churches fronted by shady olive trees in the churchyard planted by Vasco de Quiroga. Most of the monastery now houses a fascinating new museum. The museum showcases Purépecha culture and history and documents the arrival of the Spanish and the people's conversion to Christianity via excellent displays set up in the cloisters, refectory and two open chapels. The galleries include a number of faded murals and Mudéjar-patterned wooden ceiling ornamentation, as well as a carved portal at the main entrance. A section of the first floor is also dedicated to rotating art exhibits. Signage is in Spanish and English. Attached is the stark Templo de San Francisco.