Mark Read

Valles Centrales

The historic yet sophisticated city of Oaxaca is ringed by a slightly more rustic collection of towns and villages that tout some the state's biggest calling cards: ancient Mesoamerican ruins, indigenous crafts, industrious markets, riotous festivals and fields full of mezcal-producing agave plants. There are three main geographical arteries: the Valle de Tlacolula, stretching 50km east from the city; the Valle de Zimatlán, running about 100km south; and the Valle de Etla, reaching about 40km north. All are within easy day-trip distance of Oaxaca city. The people of these Valles Centrales (Central Valleys) are mostly indigenous Zapotec.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Valles Centrales.

Archaeological Site
Monte Albán Ruins
The former capital of the Zapotec people is today an illustrious ruin, but for over a thousand years it served as the second-largest ceremonial site in Mesoamerica, after Teotihuacán. Sitting atop a flattened hill, 9 miles west of present-day Oaxaca, Monte Albán's setting is spectacular. The site is known for its expansive Gran Plaza, ancient ball court, excavated tombs, astronomical 'observatory' and, uniquely, its mysterious danzantes (carved stone figures depicting what are thought to be dead or tortured prisoners of war).
Archaeological Site
Zona Arqueológica de Mitla
Second only to Monte Albán in their importance, though not as old, the ruins of ancient Mitla date from the final two or three centuries before the Spanish conquest in the 1520s, and comprise what was probably the most important Zapotec religious center at the time – a cult center dominated by high priests who performed literally heart-wrenching human sacrifices.
Natural Pool
Mineral Springs
Natural springs have never looked this good. Set in truly ethereal surroundings amid low brush-covered mountains, Hierve El Agua (meaning 'the water boils,' but the water temperature is actually cool) is a set of bubbling mineral springs that run into natural infinity pools right on a cliff's edge with spectacular panoramas over the sierra. Water dribbling over the cliff edge for millennia has created unique white mineral formations that resemble huge frozen waterfalls. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.
Archaeological Site
Atzompa Ruins
If you like your pre-Hispanic Mexican ruins suitably ‘ruined’ and crowd-free without compromising on authenticity or spectacular setting, opt for Atzompa. The site gets a tiny fraction of Monte Albán’s visitors (it's not unusual to have the place to yourself), meaning your imagination can run wild conjuring up images of Zapotecs in feathery attire playing the Mesoamerican ball game.
Arts Center
Centro de las Artes de San Agustín
Pretty San Agustín's large, early-20th-century textile mill has been superbly restored as the Centro de las Artes de San Agustín (CaSa), a spectacular arts center with two long, large halls. The lower hall is used as a gallery for often wonderful craft or art exhibitions; the upper one is a setting for concerts, conferences and other events. The center also hosts courses and workshops in a great variety of arts and crafts. Check the website for upcoming events and expos.
Landmark
El Árbol del Tule
Visitors flock to the village of El Tule to behold El Árbol del Tule, which is, by some counts, the fattest tree in the world. California's General Sherman sequoia is ahead in total volume, but at 14m in diameter, El Árbol del Tule certainly has the world's widest trunk. This vast ahuehuete (Montezuma cypress), 42m high, dwarfs the pretty 17th-century village church in whose churchyard it towers.
Handicrafts
Alfarería Doña Rosa
It was doña Rosa Real Mateo (1900−80) who invented the method of burnishing barro negro with quartz stones for the distinctive shine. Her family alfarería (potters’ workshop) is now the biggest in the village, and they demonstrate the process to visitors after 4pm. The pieces are hand-molded by an age-old technique that uses two saucers functioning as a rudimentary potter’s wheel. They are fired in pit kilns and turn black from smoke and from the iron oxide in the clay.
Notable Building
Edificio de los Danzantes
This structure combines an early (Monte Albán I) building, which contained famous carvings known as Danzantes (Dancers), with a later structure that was built over it. There are a few original Danzantes in a short passage that you can enter, and copies of others along the wall outside. Carved between 500 and 100 BC, they depict naked men, thought to be sacrificed leaders of conquered neighboring towns.
Viewpoint
Plataforma Norte
The North Platform is almost as big as the Gran Plaza, and affords the best views. It was rebuilt several times over the centuries. The 12 column bases at the top of the stairs were part of a roofed hall. On top of the platform is a ceremonial complex created between AD 500 and 800, which includes the Patio Hundido (Sunken Patio), with an altar at its center; Edificios D, VG and E, which were topped with adobe temples; and the Templo de Dos Columnas.