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Barra de Navidad greets you with a mellow happiness and easy charm that seeps into your bones. It's a pueblo on a narrow isthmus between a lagoon and the beach, boasting excellent sportfishing, bird- and crocodile-watching trips and succulent seafood. Barra first came to prominence in 1564 when its shipyards produced the galleons used by conquistador Miguel López de Legazpi and Father André de Urdaneta to deliver the Philippines to King Felipe of Spain. By 1600, however, most of the conquests were being conducted from Acapulco, and Barra slipped into sleepy obscurity.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Barra de Navidad.
Mexican
Imagine a courtyard where secluded tables peek from behind a riot of greenery and fairy lights twinkle as evening falls. Owner Robert's photography adorns the two adjoining galleries, and old-timers sometimes make reservations weeks in advance, just to taste whatever family recipe his wife Rosy has cooked up that evening. Tequila tastings hosted on Tuesdays.
Seafood
Across the lagoon, this waterfront restaurant's family-run kitchen has been winning folks over with its superb seafood dishes for more than 50 years. The camarones costeños (coconut shrimp with a pineapple-guayaba dipping sauce) pairs nicely with refreshing coconut water served in its shell. There's a small beach here if you're up for a swim after lunch.
Breakfast
For breakfast with a fine ocean view, this 2nd-floor eatery above Hotel Barra de Navidad is hard to beat. Grab one of the terrace tables overlooking the beach, then peruse the menu of Mexican and North American favorites, from the trademark banana pancakes to eggs prepared every which way and chilaquiles (fried tortillas with green or red salsa, eggs and/or chicken).
Seafood
With a lovely view over the lagoon and welcome breezes, this open-air restaurant with palm-thatch roofing and sand floors produces some really excellent seafood – the sweet oysters slither sensually down your tongue, the aguachile (shrimp ceviche) is punchy and tart, and you can get your fish and seafood prepared umpteen different ways.
Seafood
It doesn't look like much upon first glance, just a handful of tables under a stilted beachside palapa roof, but the grilled fish is the deal. Ask for some of the delicious house salsa and order one of the fine micheladas (beer cocktails), elaborately made at the front bar, to wash it down.
Seafood
On the highway near the turnoff to Barra de Navidad, this locally popular place does excellent seafood cocktails. Just next door, the owner's brother grills divine pescado zarandeado (spiced, charcoal-broiled fish) at Tinto del Mar.
Mexican
This casual, friendly restaurant is justifiably popular for its excellent fish tacos, chiles rellenos (chilis stuffed with meat or cheese) and local and gringo favorites such as fish and chips.