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Ever since Tha Khaek opened its French-colonial shutters to travelers and the dramatic 4.3 mile-long underworld of Tham Kong Lor became a must-see fixture on itineraries, central Laos has been enticing visitors. Thanks to its honeycomb of caves and dragon-green jungle, activities on offer run from world-class rock climbing outside of Tha Khaek to trekking in the otherworldly karst forests of Hin Namno NPA.
This part of the country claims the most forest cover and highest concentrations of wildlife, including some species that have disappeared elsewhere in Southeast Asia. With its rugged, intrepid travel, and stylish pockets of comfort in Savannakhet and Tha Khaek, central Laos makes for a great place to combine your inner Indiana Jones with a Bloody Mary.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Laos.
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The most impressive, and yet least visited, cave in Khammuan is the amazing Tham Lot Se Bang Fai. Located in Hin Namno NPA, the cave results from the Se Bang Fai river plunging 6.5km through a limestone mountain, leaving an underground trail of immense caverns, impressive rock formations, rapids and waterfalls that have been seen by only a handful of visitors.
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As you approach Ban Khoun Kham along Rte 8 from Rte 13, there is a sala (open-sided shelter) viewpoint between Km 32 and Km 33. Do not, whatever you do, miss the spectacularly dramatic scenery below; somewhere between a dream and a nightmare, the landscape rears raggedly with black rock formations.
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Twenty kilometres east of Sepon, Ban Dong (Dong Village) was on one of the major thoroughfares of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, and was the site of the only Lao–Vietnamese military collaboration during the war. Most of what was previously scattered around the area has been gathered into the gated front lawn of the so-called War Museum (the official name is 'Museum of Lao-Vietnam Legacy of Joined Victory Battle on the Road 9 Area').
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Dong Natad is a sacred, semi-evergreen forest within a provincial protected area 15km east of Savannakhet. It's home to two villages that have been coexisting with the forest for about 400 years, with villagers gathering forest products such as mushrooms, fruit, oils, honey, resins and insects. It's possible to visit Dong Natad by bicycle, motorbike or tuk-tuk from Savannakhet.
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Tham Pha Chan has an entrance 60m high and about 100m wide. A stream runs about 600m through a limestone karst and in the dry season it's possible to walk to the far side. At its western end there is a sandalwood Buddha image about 15m above the ground, hence the cave's name.
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Turning off Rte 12 at Km 14 (before a bridge) you'll come across a sign pointing to this cave. Follow the dirt track south for about 400m near the village of Ban Songkhone (about 10.5km from Rte 13), to the stunning limestone cave Tham Xieng Liap, the entrance of which is at the base of a dramatic 300m-high cliff.
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Named after Wild Elephant Mountain, Phu Xang Hae is a 1060 sq km expanse of protected forest stretching east–west across the remote north of Savannakhet Province. Its hills are the source of several smaller rivers, and are also home to the eponymous elephants (and other large vertebrates) and a handful of Phu Thai and Katang villages.
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About 18km east of Ban Khoun Kham, Tha Bak sits near the confluence of the Nam Kading and Nam Theun. The reason to stop here is to either take photos of the river or get out on the incredible bomb boats, which are made out of huge missile-shaped drop tanks that carried fuel for jets operating overhead during the war. If you fancy a spin on one, just head down to the riverbank at the eastern end of the bridge and negotiate a price.
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A mini Tham Kong Lor, the river cave of Tham Pa Seuam runs for 3km, spanning some impressive stalactites and stalagmites. It's conveniently only 15km from Tha Khaek. A day trip to multiple caves, including Tham Pa Seuam, with the Tourist Information Centre costs from 350,000K per person (for a group of six or more) and includes a 400m boat ride into the main chamber.