West of the harbour, a cable car ascends every 20 minutes to the top of 333m-high Inasa-yama, offering superb views over Nagasaki, particularly at night. From 7am to 10pm there's a free shuttle from five Nagasaki hotels (reserve at front desk) and JR Nagasaki Station going towards Shimo-Ōhashi; get off at the Ropeway-mae bus stop and walk up the steps through the grounds of Fuchi-jinja.

Elsewhere on the mountainside is Onsen Fukunoyu. In addition to wet baths, try the gabanyoku stone baths (additional ¥700), with temperatures from a balmy 38°C to the are-you-nuts? 70°C. There's a free shuttle from JR Nagasaki and Urakami stations (20 minutes, twice per hour).