Sicily's Mediterranean coast is a mixed bag. The main attraction of the area, the spectacular ruins of the Valley of the Temples – unparalleled across the island for their significance, expanse and beauty – are overlooked by ranks of unsightly tower blocks, giving the city of Agrigento an odd air. West of Agrigento, the development soon peters out and the landscape takes on a wilder, less contaminated aspect. Here you'll find some wonderful sandy beaches, particularly at the Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa and Eraclea Minoa, and tracts of beautiful, unspoilt countryside. The chalk cliffs of the Scala dei Turchi are a spectacular sight and there's a great beach too. Further west, the pretty spa town of Sciacca is well worth a day or two for its excellent seafood restaurants and handsome historic streets. Don't miss Favara's art neighbourhood, Farm Cultural Park, an innovative and vibrant art project that has revived a town.