Mediterranean Coast

Sicily's most enthralling archaeological site encompasses the ruined ancient city of Akragas, highlighted by the stunningly well-preserved Tempio della Concordia, one of several ridge-top temples that once served as beacons for homecoming sailors. The 13-sq-km park, 3km south of Agrigento, is split into eastern and western zones. Ticket offices with car parks are at the park's southwestern corner (the main Porta V entrance) and at the northeastern corner near the Temple of Hera (Eastern Entrance).

In 2010, married couple Andrea Bartoli and Favara-born Florinda Saieva bought several abandoned buildings in the town's dilapidated heart and set up this unique neighbourhood devoted to art. Since then, the Farm has become a centre for exhibitions by international and local artists, housing a gallery of thought-provoking, often politically charged, artwork, along with shops, bars and cafes, cultural events, talks, screenings, workshops and shows going on throughout the year. There's also now stylish accommodation within the area's arty streets.

Sciacca's carnival is famous for its flamboyance and fabulous party atmosphere. Held between the last Thursday before Lent and Shrove Tuesday, it features an amazing parade of huge papier-mâché figures mounted on floats. The festival opens with carnival king Peppe Nappa receiving the city's keys. The technicolor floats are then released into the streets with their bizarre cast of grotesque caricatures.

This stunning 761-hectare natural park, administered by the World Wildlife Fund, offers plenty of scope for walkers, with well-marked trails and sweeping panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and coast. The long, deserted Torre Salsa beach is especially beautiful, although the access road is rough. The park is signposted off the SS115: exit at Siculiana Marina (with its own great sandy beach) or continue 10km north to the second Montallegro exit and follow the signs for ‘WWF Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa’.

Nowadays a small summer resort – empty most of the year, packed in July and August – Eraclea Minoa was an important Greek settlement in ancient times. It was legendarily founded by the Cretan king Minos, who came to Sicily in pursuit of Daedalus after his escape from Crete. Historical evidence suggests the city was established by Greek colonists in the 6th century BC and went on to flourish in the 5th and 4th centuries BC. The ancient city's scant remains can be seen at the archaeological park above town.

Today Eraclea Minoa's greatest attraction is its beach, a photogenic strip of golden sand backed by willowy eucalyptus trees, cypress groves and chalk cliffs. At the beach's western end there's a natural mud rock, which you can scrape off and massage into your skin. Dry off in the sun, then rinse in the sea and you'll have removed 10 years in 10 minutes.

This blindingly white rock outcropping, shaped like a giant staircase, juts into the sea near Realmonte, 15km west of Agrigento. It's a very popular spot with local sunseekers who come to sunbathe on the milky-smooth rock and dive into the indigo sea. To escape the crowds, walk another few hundred metres north along the white rocky shelf, and descend to the long sandy beach below.

It's quite a drive up to Caltabellotta: the road rises almost vertically as it winds 19km up to the hilltop village at 949m above sea level. But make it to the top and you're rewarded with some amazing panoramic views of 21 (apparently) surrounding villages. The highest vantage point is the ruined Norman castle at the top of the village, where a peace treaty was signed in 1302 ending the Sicilian Vespers. Viewed from here, the town's terracotta roofs and grey houses appear to cling to the cliffside like a perfect mosaic. The town was originally named Kal'at Bellut by the Arabs, meaning 'oak rock'.

On the edge of the village lies the derelict monastery of San Pellegrino, from where you can see caves that were used as tombs as far back as prehistoric times.