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Sumatra

Few isles tempt the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like the wild land of Sumatra. An island of extraordinary beauty, it bubbles with life and vibrates under the power of nature. Eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis are Sumatran headline-grabbers. Steaming volcanoes brew and bluster while standing guard over lakes that sleepily lap the edges of craters. Orangutan-filled jungles host not only our red-haired cousins, but also tigers, rhinos and elephants. And down at sea level, idyllic deserted beaches are bombarded by clear barrels of surf.

As varied as the land, the people of Sumatra are made up of many cultures, from the devout Muslims in Aceh to the hedonistic Batak Christians around Danau Toba and the matrilineal Minangkabau of Padang. All are unified by a fear, respect and love of the wild and wondrous land of Sumatra.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Sumatra.

  • See

    Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman

    With its brilliant-white walls, ebony-black domes and towering minaret, this 19th-century mosque is a dazzling sight. The best time to visit is during Friday-afternoon prayers, when the entire building and courtyard are filled with people. A series of retractable shades in the tiled courtyard offer all-weather protection for worshippers. A headscarf is required for women. The first section of the mosque was built by the Dutch in 1879 as a conciliatory gesture towards the Acehnese after the original one burnt down. Two more domes – one on either side of the first – were added by the Dutch in 1936, and another two by the Indonesian government in 1957. The mosque survived intact after the 2004 earthquake and tsunami, a sign interpreted by many residents as direct intervention by the Divine. During this time the mosque served as an unofficial crisis centre for survivors, and bodies awaiting identification were laid on the public square in front of the mosque.

  • See

    Pulau Penyenget

    Pulau Penyenget, reached by frequent boats (7000Rp) from the Tanjung Pinang pier, was once the capital of the Riau rajahs. The ruins of the old palace of Rajah Ali and the tombs and graveyards of Rajah Jaafar and Rajah Ali are signposted inland. The most impressive site is the sulphur-coloured mosque, with its many domes and minarets. The beautiful fairy-tale castle of a mosque that is the Masjid Raya Sultan Riau was built in 1832 and is painted in pastels of yellow and green. Its minarets are topped with tall conical spires and are almost Gothic Revival in style. This is an active mosque, and although visitors are welcomed, appropriate clothing should be worn; cover yourself up, or else admire the building from afar. Penyenget was the royal capital of the Riao-Johor sultanate, and the island is dotted with the ruins of the palaces and tombs of these Malay rulers. Ones to look out for on your wanders include the ruined palace Astana Kantor, straight on from the mosque, and the tomb of Raja Hamidah, off to the left of the mosque. There are many others that you'll stumble across as you walk around the island. At the far west of the island are the ruins of an impressive stone fort, built by the sultan Raja Haji in the 18th century to fend off Dutch attacks. Ironically, the cannons you see here are Dutch made. Raja Haji, incidentally, was the author of the first Malay grammar book, a reminder that this island was once a hotbed of intellectual and religious minds, and at one time was home to more than 9000 people. The best way to get around the island is by motorised tricycle; expect to pay between 30,000Rp and 50,000Rp for a day trip.

  • See

    Tsunami Museum

    A visit to this beautifully designed, hard-hitting museum commences with a walk through a dark, dripping tunnel that symbolises the 2004 tsunami waves. This is followed by a powerful set of images of the devastation projected from tombstone-like receptacles, and a circular chamber engraved with the names of the lost. Upstairs a very graphic short film is shown, along with photographs of loss, displacement, rebuilding, hopefulness and reunited families. Other displays explain how earthquakes and tsunamis are created and how Aceh’s landscape was altered by the disaster (look out for the ‘before’ and ‘after’ scale models of the city).

  • See

    Gunung Sibayak

    Famous for its steamy sulphurous fumaroles, Gunung Sibayak (2094m) is one of Indonesia’s most accessible volcanoes. Getting to the summit for sunrise is a popular time to go, but you'll have to take private transport at that hour – 500,000Rp (four to five people), from where it's a one-hour walk from the car park. Solo travellers can join an existing group to keep costs down. Be prepared for abrupt weather changes: pack warm clothing, rain gear, a flashlight, snacks and drinking water. If you're walking from Berastagi, guides can be booked at the tourist office and guesthouses for 200,000Rp (for up to three people, three hours walk one way). A guide is only really essential if you're taking the route through the jungle. But if you’re trekking alone it’s still a very good idea as the weather can change quickly; a German tourist got lost and perished here in 2017. The hike can be done in five hours return, and you should set out as early as possible. The easiest way is to take the track that starts to the northwest of Berastagi, a 10-minute walk past the Sibayak Multinational Resthouse. Take the left-hand path beside the hut where you pay the entrance fee. From here, it’s a 7km route (about three hours) to the top and fairly easy to follow, mostly along a road. Rather than trekking from Berastagi, you can catch one of the green Kama minibuses (4000Rp) to the base of the volcano, from where it’s a two-hour climb to the summit. The first bus is at 7am. There are steps part of the way, but this track is narrower and in poorer condition than the one from Berastagi. The longest option, which should be done with a guide, is to trek through the jungle from Air Terjun Panorama; this waterfall is on the Medan road, about 5km north of Berastagi. Allow at least five hours for the walk from here. Trails on Gunung Sibayak are neither clearly marked nor well maintained, and it is easy to get lost. During wet season, paths can be extremely slippery or even washed out. Be prepared for abrupt weather changes and bring supplies including food, drinks, warm clothing, rain gear and a torch, in case you get caught out after dark. Before setting out, pick up a map from any of the guesthouses in Berastagi and peruse their guestbooks for comments and warnings about the hike. Don't forget to pack your swimmers and a towel so you can enjoy the hot springs on the way down.

  • See

    Gunung Kerinci

    Dominating the northern end of Kerinci Seblat National Park is Gunung Kerinci (3805m), Southeast Asia’s tallest volcano and one of Sumatra’s most active. On clear days the summit offers fantastic views of Danau Gunung Tujuh and the surrounding valleys and mountains. Summit treks usually start from the national park entrance, 5km from Kersik Tua, and tackle the mountain over two days, camping overnight. A fully guided trip with food, permits, transport and all gear costs anywhere from 900,000Rp to 1,500,000Rp per person. The highest campsite, at 3400m, is normally reached after six hours. The following morning, allow an hour in the predawn to reach the summit by sunrise. The path is very steep and eroded, and above the treeline the scree is extremely slippery. A guide is mandatory and you’ll need full camping gear, warm and waterproof clothes, and a head torch (all of which can be hired in Kersik Tua). Nights are freezing. Do not attempt the climb in wet weather. Fully self-sufficient parties needing a guide will only pay around 700,000Rp per person. Botanists and twitchers from around the world come for the rare flora and fauna, such as Javanese edelweiss, Schneider’s pitta and the crested wood partridge. Nepenthes (pitcher plants), squirrels, geckos and long-tailed macaques can be found in the lower forest, and troops of yellow-handed mitered langurs are also seen.

  • See

    Museum Bahari Bintan

    This fascinating maritime museum is a surprising find along this sleepy coastal road. Housed within a building shaped like a ship, it has an unlikely setting in the middle of an Islamic study centre, which doubles as a tourist information office. It has beautifully presented exhibits that cover local curiosities such as the kelong (floating fishing buildings) you'll see out to sea and detailed model ships, and it provides interesting background on the lifestyle of the nomadic Orang Laut sea tribes.

  • See

    Museum of North Sumatra

    Housed in a striking traditional building, this museum has a well-presented collection ranging from early North Sumatran civilisations and the Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic periods to the Dutch colonial era. Highlights include fine stone carvings and extravagantly carved wooden dragon coffins from Nias, Batak scrolls for fending off misfortune, fine textiles, a keris (ornamental dagger) collection and detailed models of traditional architecture. It's 4km southeast of the city centre.

  • See

    Rumah Aceh

    In the same compound as the Museum Negeri Banda Aceh, the Rumah Aceh is a fine example of traditional Acehnese architecture, built without nails and held together with cord and pegs. Inside is a typical traditional kitchen and living area with hanging crib, among other traditional Acehnese pieces. Out front is a huge cast-iron bell, the Cakra Donya, said to have been a gift from a Chinese emperor in the 15th century.

  • See

    Pulau Sikandang

    This largish island with pristine beaches takes a couple of hours to walk around. It's one of the most popular places to stay with several guesthouses set up here. Snorkelling is possible but there’s a steep drop-off near the shore off the main beach.

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