Kupang is the capital of Nusa Tenggara Timur (NTT). Despite the city’s scruffy waterfront, sprawling gnarl of traffic and the almost complete lack of endearing cultural or architectural elements, this is a place you can get used to. Besides, there are atmospheric markets in the centre, spots to relax beside locals and a smattering of nearby natural wonders. The chaos can be contagious – it's a university town, after all – even if you're just popping in and out.
Kupang's a regional transport hub, but don’t be surprised if between trips to the interior, Alor or Rote you discover that it grows on you. England’s Captain Bligh had a similar epiphany when he spent 47 days here after that emasculating mutiny on the Bounty in 1789.