East Bali

One of the holiest temple complexes on the island (it and Pura Besakih are the most important in east Bali), this group of seven temples has a spectacular setting on the steep slope of Gunung Lempuyang, 10km northeast of Tirta Gangga.

In Sidemen (pronounced Si-da-men), a walk in any direction is a communion with nature. Winding through one of Bali's most beautiful river valleys, the road to this hilltop village offers marvellous paddy-field scenery, a delightful rural character and extraordinary views of Gunung Agung (when the clouds permit).

German artist Walter Spies lived in this part of Bali for some time from 1932 in order to escape the perpetual party of his own making in Ubud. Later the Swiss painter Theo Meier, nearly as famous as Spies for his influence on Balinese art, lived in the same house. These days, tourists head here to get away from the bustle of the island's larger towns and hike the scenic countryside.

Stretching from Amed village to Bali's far eastern tip, this semi-arid coast has long drawn visitors with its succession of small, scalloped, grey-sand beaches (some more rocks than sand), relaxed atmosphere and excellent diving and snorkelling.

'Amed' is actually a misnomer for the area, as the coast is a series of seaside dusun (small villages) that starts with Amed village in the north and then runs southeast to Aas. Amed village, Jemeluk, Lipah and Selang are popular destinations for scuba divers, freedivers and snorkellers, and the entire coastline is dotted with resorts boasting yoga shalas, infinity pools and pavilion restaurants.

The sound of scores of cooking pots and the glare of bright lights add a frenetic and festive clamour to Gianyar's delicious and wonderfully aromatic pasar malam (night market), where some of the best street food in Bali is on offer. Scores of stalls set up each night in the town's main street and cook up a mouthwatering and jaw-dropping range of dishes, including delectable babi guling (spit-roast pig stuffed with chilli, turmeric, garlic and ginger).

Built when the Dewa Agung dynasty moved here in 1710, this palace compound was laid out as a large square, believed to be in the form of a mandala, with courtyards, gardens, pavilions and moats. Most of the original palace and grounds were destroyed by the 1908 Dutch attacks; all that remain are the carved Pemedal Agung, the gateway on the south side of the square, the Kertha Gosa and the Bale Kambang.

This 1.2-hectare water palace serves as a fascinating reminder of the old Bali. Built for the last raja of Karangasem in 1946, it was almost fully destroyed by the eruption of nearby Gunung Agung in 1963, but has subsequently been rebuilt. Admire the 11-tiered Nawa Sanga fountain and the ponds filled with huge koi and lotus blossoms, and jump between the round stepping stones in the water. It's also possible to take a swim in the huge stone spring-water pool.