Bali has a hot soul. The volcanoes stretching along the island's spine are seemingly cones of silence but their active spirits are just below the surface, eager for expression.
Gunung Batur (5633ft/1717m) is constantly letting off steam; this place has an other-worldly beauty that may overwhelm the attendant hassles of a visit. At Danau Bratan there are sacred Hindu temples, while the village of Candikuning has an engrossing botanic garden.
The old colonial village of Munduk, a hiking centre, has views down the hills to the coast of north Bali, which match the beauty of the many nearby waterfalls, and the lakes of Tamblingan and Buyan. In the shadow of Gunung Batukau (7467ft/2276m) you'll find one of Bali's most mystic temples. And, just south, the Unesco-listed ancient rice terraces around Jatiluwih bedazzle.
Amid it all, little roads lead to untouched villages. Start driving north from Antasari for one surprise after another.