Matt Munro

Central Mountains

Bali has a hot soul. The volcanoes stretching along the island's spine are seemingly cones of silence but their active spirits are just below the surface, eager for expression.

Gunung Batur (5633ft/1717m) is constantly letting off steam; this place has an other-worldly beauty that may overwhelm the attendant hassles of a visit. At Danau Bratan there are sacred Hindu temples, while the village of Candikuning has an engrossing botanic garden.

The old colonial village of Munduk, a hiking centre, has views down the hills to the coast of north Bali, which match the beauty of the many nearby waterfalls, and the lakes of Tamblingan and Buyan. In the shadow of Gunung Batukau (7467ft/2276m) you'll find one of Bali's most mystic temples. And, just south, the Unesco-listed ancient rice terraces around Jatiluwih bedazzle.

Amid it all, little roads lead to untouched villages. Start driving north from Antasari for one surprise after another.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Central Mountains.

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Banyu Wana Amertha Waterfalls
Newly developed as a tourist attraction in early 2018, the falls here are among the best on Bali. It’s about a 20-minute walk from the car park; a 500m trail, which is paved only with concrete stones and logs, winds through a village and coffee plantation. You'll eventually arrive at a large sign, where the path diverges to four separate cascades. Touches like colourful shrubs, bamboo huts and bridges make them especially Insta-worthy. Get here before the crowds catch on.
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Bali Botanic Garden
This garden is a showplace. Established in 1959 as a branch of the national botanic gardens at Bogor, near Jakarta, it covers more than 154 hectares on the lower slopes of Gunung Pohen. Don’t miss the Panca Yadnya Garden (Garden of Five Offerings), which preserves plants used in ancient Hindu ceremonies. For an extra 12,000Rp you can drive your own car (no motorbikes) about the gardens.
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Pura Luhur Batukau
On the slopes of Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau was the state temple when Tabanan was an independent kingdom. It has a seven-roofed meru (multiroofed shrine) dedicated to Maha Dewa, the mountain’s guardian spirit, as well as shrines for Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. This is certainly the most spiritual temple you can easily visit in Bali.
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Pura Ulun Danu Bratan
An iconic image of Bali, depicted on the 50,000Rp note, this important Hindu-Buddhist temple was founded in the 17th century. It is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the waters, and is built on small islands. Pilgrimages and ceremonies are held here to ensure that there is a supply of water for farmers all over Bali as part of the Unesco-recognised subak system. Incredibly popular, you'll need to dodge selfie sticks unless you set out early.
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Banyumala Twin Waterfalls
In the secluded, picturesque highlands north of Munduk, a 15-minute hike down natural, bamboo-railed stairs leads to this powerful pair of cascades. Enjoy the view of them tumbling some 35m into the large natural pool that's warmed by the morning sun and is the perfect temperature for a swim.
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Pura Puncak Penulisan
Near the Penilusan road junction, several steep flights of steps lead to Bali's highest temple, Pura Puncak Penulisan (1745m). Inside the highest courtyard are rows of old statues and fragments of sculptures in the open bale (pavilion with steeply pitched thatch roof). Some of the sculptures date back to the 11th century. The temple views are superb: facing north, and weather permitting, you can see over the rice terraces clear to the Singaraja coast.
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Viewpoint
Offers an amazing panorama over three mountains: Gunung Batur, Gunung Abang and Gunung Agung.
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Jatiluwih Rice Fields
At Jatiluwih, which means ‘truly marvellous’, you'll be rewarded with vistas of centuries-old rice terraces that exhaust your ability to describe green. The terraces have received Unesco World Heritage status in recognition of the ancient rice-growing culture. You’ll understand why by viewing the panorama from the narrow, twisting 18km road leading in and out of town, but do get out for a rice-field walk. Follow the water as it runs through channels and bamboo pipes from one plot to the next.
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Batur Geopark Museum
The extraordinary geology of the Gunung Batur area is explained in fascinating detail in this museum right near the crater rim. Using interactive displays, models and rock samples, the enormous forces that continue to shape this area are made real. Expect to spend about an hour here and thank the Unesco Geopark designation for funding this complex. Note that you have to pay the region's access fees before you reach the museum.