The Canggu region, north and west of Kerobokan, is Bali's fastest-growing area. Much of the growth is centred along the coast, anchored by the endless swathe of beach, which, despite rampant development, remains fairly uncrowded. Kerobokan morphs into Umalas inland and Canggu to the west, while neighbouring Echo Beach is a big construction site.
Cloistered villas lure expats who whisk past the remaining rice farmers on motorbikes or in air-con comfort. Traffic may be the ultimate commoner's revenge: road building is a decade behind settlement. Amid this maze of too-narrow lanes you'll find creative cafes, trendy restaurants and appealing shops. Follow the sounds of the surf to great beaches such as the one at Batu Bolong.