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Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand is a place of myth and mountains. Hindus think of it as Dev Bhoomi – the Land of Gods – and the dramatic terrain is covered with holy peaks, lakes and rivers. Twisting roads and high-altitude hiking trails lead to spectacular pilgrimage sites where tales from Hindu epics are set. Though the presence of Shiva and Parvati (in a few of her forms) tower over the state, the imprint of British colonialism is equally apparent: the legend of hunter Jim Corbett lives on in the famed tiger reserve that bears his name; popular holiday towns were once Raj-era hill stations; and the Beatles turned Rishikesh into a magnet for spiritual seekers and yoga practitioners worldwide.

Uttarakhand may seem like a silver medallist: it’s the state with the second-highest tiger population (after Karnataka) and has India’s second-highest peak (Nanda Devi); but its diversity of activities and sheer natural beauty are pure travelers' gold.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Uttarakhand.

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Har-ki-Pairi Ghat
Har-ki-Pairi (The Footstep of God) is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some divine nectar and left behind a footprint. Every evening, hundreds of worshippers gather for the ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). Officials in blue uniforms collect donations and, as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and a candle on top (₹10) are lit and placed on the river to drift away downstream. Tourists can mingle with the crowd to experience the rituals of an ancient religion that still retains its power in the modern age. Someone may claim to be a priest and help you with your puja before asking for ₹200 or more. If you want to make a donation, it's best to give to a uniformed collector. The best time to visit the ghats are just before dusk for ganga aarti; aim to get here an hour before sunset to ensure a good seat to watch the ceremony. To get here walk the length of the ghats starting from one of the bridges close to the train station which will allow you to observe the spiritual fervour of pilgrims who've come far and wide to bathe in the Ganges.
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Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram
Just south of Swarg Ashram is what’s left of the original Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, where the Beatles stayed and wrote much of the White Album (and a few tracks from Abbey Road). After decades of neglect, the Forest Department has reclaimed it from the jungle growth that had nearly consumed it, turning it into a pilgrimage site for fans, plus an evolving graffiti-art museum. Don't miss the meditation hall, with bizarre warrens of rock-lined hallways and striking street-art pieces. There are numerous abandoned buildings to explore, some downright creepy, including the derelict lodging where the Beatles resided (along with the likes of Mike Love from the Beach Boys, Mia Farrow and her sister Prudence – whom the Beatles song was written after). Also here is the crumbling mansion where Maharishi Mahesh stayed. The meditation domes lost to the jungle also make for a surreal sight. Given the entire site is surrounded by jungle, an electric fence has recently been installed in an attempt to keep out leopard and elephant that are visitors. To commemorate the 50-year anniversary of the Beatles visit, a permanent photograph exhibition was unveiled in 2018 of the snaps taken by Paul Saltzman (www.thebeatlesinindia.com), one of the only photographers permitted inside the ashram, who documented their stay. There's also a room dedicated to Transcendental Meditation, which was established here by Maharishi Mahesh.
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Happy Valley
Only 3km northwest of town, this scenic outlying region of Mussoorie is famous as the site where the Dalai Lama and fellow exiles arrived in 1959, after escaping from Tibet following Chinese occupation. The spiritual leader stayed for one year before relocating the exiled Tibetan government to Dharamsala. It's a beautiful valley with the atmospheric Shedup Choephelling Temple where the local Tibetan community pray, and a nearby hilltop stupa at Dalai Hills with a large Buddha statue, prayer flags and Himalayan views.
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Swarg Niwas & Shri Trayanbakshwar Temple
Rishikesh's most iconic landmark is this 13-storey wedding cake of a temple, which dominates the east bank of Lakshman Jhula. There are dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level.
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Mussoorie Heritage Centre
Sitting beneath Landour's clock tower is this impressive heritage centre that's set up by dedicated local historian, Surbhi Agarwal. She'll take you through the displays of collectibles and artefacts from Mussoorie, all set in the house she was born in. The small temporary exhibition is always worth checking out, as is its shop selling beautiful artworks, photography and prints, including John Gould's Birds of Mussoorie. Ask in advance about arranging heritage walks about town. Next door is Surbhi's father's impressive antique shop that's been here since the 1960s.
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Soham Heritage & Art Centre
Part museum, part art gallery, Soham Heritage & Art Centre focuses largely on the culture of the Uttarakhand Himalaya. You'll get guided through the displays of cultural artefacts, historical photography and an art gallery featuring paintings by Kavita, who along with her husband Samer set up this privately run museum. Entry proceeds go towards a local orphanage they run. It's a steep five-minute walk off the bend in the main road, just down from the Picture Palace.
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Jabarkhet Nature Reserve
Dedicated efforts have been taking place since 2015 to transform this sizeable tract of privately owned land into a nature reserve, home to abundant animals, birdlife and wild flowers. While you'll need luck to spot mammals, camera traps have caught leopard, black bear, porcupine and several species of deer. There are hiking trails and specialist guides available; see the website for details. It's around 5km east of Mussoorie and is part of a historical estate that fell into disuse.
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Mussoorie Library
One of Mussoorie's most prominent landmarks is this historical Raj-era library that opened way back in 1843. Its ornate Victoria-style balcony veranda features cast-iron lacework, and it continues to function today as a lending library. Tourists are able to wander its foyer, but only card-carrying members can venture any further.
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Gun Hill
From midway along The Mall, a cable car runs up to Gun Hill (2530m), which, on a clear day, has views of several big peaks. A steep path also winds up to the viewpoint. The most popular time to go up is an hour or so before sunset. There’s a minicarnival atmosphere in high season, with kids' rides, food stalls, magic shops and honeymooners having their photos taken in Garhwali costumes.