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Uttarakhand is a place of myth and mountains. Hindus think of it as Dev Bhoomi – the Land of Gods – and the dramatic terrain is covered with holy peaks, lakes and rivers. Twisting roads and high-altitude hiking trails lead to spectacular pilgrimage sites where tales from Hindu epics are set. Though the presence of Shiva and Parvati (in a few of her forms) tower over the state, the imprint of British colonialism is equally apparent: the legend of hunter Jim Corbett lives on in the famed tiger reserve that bears his name; popular holiday towns were once Raj-era hill stations; and the Beatles turned Rishikesh into a magnet for spiritual seekers and yoga practitioners worldwide.
Uttarakhand may seem like a silver medallist: it’s the state with the second-highest tiger population (after Karnataka) and has India’s second-highest peak (Nanda Devi); but its diversity of activities and sheer natural beauty are pure travelers' gold.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Uttarakhand.
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Kedarnath is in the most dramatic location of the char dham temples, located at the base of 6970m peaks and 22km from the nearest road. The puja offered inside, especially around the stone 'hump', is fervent and can be quite intense. The site is so auspicious that pilgrims used to throw themselves from one of the cliffs behind the temple in the hope of instantly attaining moksha (liberation from samsara).
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The bugyals (high-altitude meadows) of tall wildflowers in the Unesco World Heritage–listed Valley of Flowers are a glorious sight on a sunny day, rippling in the breeze, and framed by mighty 6000m mountains with glaciers and snow decorating their peaks year-round. British mountaineer Frank Smythe stumbled upon the Valley of Flowers in 1931. Over 300 species of flowers are found here.
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Climbing this 4000m summit is one of the most rewarding day hikes in the whole Indian Himalaya. An early-morning start from the village of Chopta can pay off with stunning panoramas of the Garhwali and Kumaoni Himalaya, with awesome views of major mountains including Nanda Devi, Trishul and the Kedarnath group. The 5km hike is moderately strenuous (especially if you're not acclimatised) and takes a few hours, passing Tungnath Mandir – the world's highest Shiva temple – along the way.
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This sublime sanctuary protects 958 sq km of pristine forests, alpine meadows and snowy peaks, including the wonderfully remote Har-ki Dun (3510m) – a high valley that's a botanical paradise, criss-crossed by glacial streams. If you're very lucky, you might spot a snow leopard.
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Har-ki-Pairi (The Footstep of God) is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some divine nectar and left behind a footprint. Every evening, hundreds of worshippers gather for the ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). Officials in blue uniforms collect donations and, as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and a candle on top (₹10) are lit and placed on the river to drift away downstream.
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This pretty lake is Nainital’s centrepiece and is said to be one of the emerald-green eyes of Shiva’s wife, Sati ( naina is Sanskrit for eye) that fell to earth after her act of self-immolation. Boaters will row you around the lake for ₹210 in the brightly painted gondola-like boats, or the Nainital Boat Club will sail you around for ₹500. Pedal boats can also be hired.
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Just south of Swarg Ashram is what’s left of the original Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, where the Beatles stayed and wrote much of the White Album (and a few tracks from Abbey Road). After decades of neglect, the Forest Department has reclaimed it from the jungle growth that had nearly consumed it, turning it into a pilgrimage site for fans, plus an evolving graffiti-art museum. Don't miss the meditation hall, with bizarre warrens of rock-lined hallways and striking street-art pieces.
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Rishikesh's most iconic landmark is this 13-storey wedding cake of a temple, which dominates the east bank of Lakshman Jhula. There are dozens of shrines to Hindu deities on each level.
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Sitting beneath Landour's clock tower is this impressive heritage centre that's set up by dedicated local historian, Surbhi Agarwal. She'll take you through the displays of collectibles and artefacts from Mussoorie, all set in the house she was born in. The small temporary exhibition is always worth checking out, as is its shop selling beautiful artworks, photography and prints, including John Gould's Birds of Mussoorie. Ask in advance about arranging heritage walks about town.