Uttarakhand

The real reason most foreigners come to Gangotri is for the trek to Gaumukh Glacier – the source of the Ganges River.

Don’t be daunted by the trek – the trail rises gradually and is completely solid. Four to six hours (14km) up the trail, at Bhojwasa (Bhojbasa; 3790m), there’s a GMVN Tourist Bungalow and other rudimentary tented dorm lodging; Gaumukh is 4km (1½ hours) past that. On clear days, the best time to visit the source is early to midafternoon, when it’s out of the shadows. There, the water flows out of Gangotri Glacier beneath the soaring west face of Bhagirathi Parvat (6856m), with the peak of Shivling (the 6543m ‘Indian Matterhorn’) towering to the south.

It is possible to do Gaumukh Glacier as a day trip from Gangotri, but you'll have to set out as early as you can (park office is open 6am to 6pm) and it'll be rushed. Your best bet is to take a pony (one way/return ₹1350/2500), which can be hired in Gangotri. Ponies aren't permitted for the last leg from Bhojwasa to Gaumukh, so you'll have to walk that 8km-return trek. A porter is ₹800 to ₹1500 depending on the season, while a guide is ₹1500 to ₹2000.

More ambitious hikers with camping gear often continue to the gorgeous meadow at Tapovan, 6km beyond Gaumukh; tents can be hired from Real Adventure or Hotel Mandakini in Gangotri. As of late 2018 no permits were being issued for overnight stays in Tapovan due to an ongoing court case banning camping in the bugyal (meadows).

Before trekking to Gaumukh, you must first get a permit, since access is limited to 150 people per day. This can be obtained from the permit office above the bus stand at Gangotri, or from the District Magistrate Office in Uttarkashi. At both places, you'll need to bring a copy of your passport ID page and visa. The permit is valid for two days and costs ₹150/600 per Indian/foreigner (then ₹50/250 for each extra day); camping permits are ₹100 to ₹200, and a cooking permit is ₹200. You can also attempt to arrange a trekking permit online at www.swsuttarkashi.com/permission/gangotrinationalpark. Solo trekkers are required to bring along a guide (a permit won't be issued without one – however, a porter will suffice, a cheaper alternative to a guide).

Before Bhojwasa there's only a tea shop along the trek, 9km into the journey at Chirwasa, so you'll need to bring along enough water.

Har-ki-Pairi (The Footstep of God) is where Vishnu is said to have dropped some divine nectar and left behind a footprint. Every evening, hundreds of worshippers gather for the ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). Officials in blue uniforms collect donations and, as the sun sets, bells ring out a rhythm, torches are lit, and leaf baskets with flower petals inside and a candle on top (₹10) are lit and placed on the river to drift away downstream.

This famous reserve was established in 1936 as India’s first national park. Originally called Hailey National Park, then Ramganga National Park, it was renamed in 1957 after legendary tiger-hunter Jim Corbett (1875–1955), who put Kumaon on the map with his book The Man-Eaters of Kumaon.

Ever since the Beatles visited the ashram of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in the late '60s, Rishikesh has been a magnet for spiritual seekers. Today it styles itself as the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’, with masses of ashrams and all kinds of yoga and meditation classes. The action is mostly north of the main town, where the exquisite setting on the fast-flowing Ganges River, surrounded by forested hills, is conducive to meditation and mind expansion. In the evening, an almost supernatural breeze blows down the valley, setting temple bells ringing as sadhus ('holy' men), pilgrims and tourists prepare for the nightly ganga aarti (river worship ceremony). You can learn to play the sitar or tabla; try Hasya yoga (laughter therapy), practise meditation or take a punt on crystal healing.

Rishikesh is not all spirituality and contorted limbs, it's also a popular white-water rafting centre, backpacker hang-out and Himalayan-trekking gateway.

Perched on a ridge 2km high, the 'Queen of Hill Stations' vies with Nainital as Uttarakhand’s favourite holiday destination. When the mist clears, views of the green Doon Valley and the distant white-capped Himalayan peaks are superb, and in the hot months the cooler temperatures and fresh mountain air make a welcome break from the plains below.

Established by the British in 1823, Mussoorie became hugely popular with the Raj set. The ghosts of that era linger on in the architecture of the churches, libraries, hotels and summer palaces. The town is swamped with affluent Indian tourists between May and July, when it can seem like a tacky holiday camp for families and honeymooners, but at other times many of the 300 hotels have vacancies and their prices drop dramatically. During monsoon, the town is often shrouded in clouds.

The bugyals (high-altitude meadows) of tall wildflowers in the Unesco World Heritage–listed Valley of Flowers are a glorious sight on a sunny day, rippling in the breeze, and framed by mighty 6000m mountains with glaciers and snow decorating their peaks year-round. British mountaineer Frank Smythe stumbled upon the Valley of Flowers in 1931. Over 300 species of flowers are found here.

This peaceful spot about 8km north of Almora has been luring alternative types for close to 100 years. Attracted by the abundance of marijuana that grows wild here, the list of luminaries who've visited, some for extended stays, includes Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens, Timothy Leary, Allen Ginsberg and Swami Vivekananda, who meditated at the hilltop Kasar Devi Temple. Today, the village (known back in the day as Crank's Ridge) is a low-key backpacker destination, with a mellow vibe and clear-day Himalayan views. There's not a lot to do here, but it's a great place to chill. And Mohan's Binsar Retreat can arrange fishing, rafting and trekking trips.