Behind Leh’s central Jamia Masjid, winding alleys and stairways burrow between and beneath a series of old mud-brick Ladakhi houses and eroded chortens. The alleys themselves are a large part of the attraction, but some buildings have been particularly well restored, notably the pair of 17th-century mansions now housing the interesting LAMO arts centre.

To get a taste, walk past the Dhyani Buddha–fronted building that houses Lala's Art Cafe, turn hard left on an easily missed passageway beside a rigsum gonbo (represented by a trio of yellow, white and blue mini-stupas) and tunnel under a building past a magenta door marked 'Chamba Gonba' (normally locked). Wind up a rocky slope to LAMO and beyond to the Old Town Cafe and the Leh Palace just above.