This arts-media trust occupies an adjoining pair of 17th-century Ladakhi mansions, one of which was the home of the munshi (king's secretary) and thus one of the finest homes of its era. Beautifully restored since 2006, it provides an interesting backdrop to often-fascinating art exhibitions, film screenings and author talks. A series of guided walking tours is being prepared.

Personalised 20-minute guided tours point out features you might otherwise miss, such as the window between the two households used to transfer embers when one's fire went out, a fragment of the now-lost city wall (in the colourful Bukhari room) and the false floor panel that covers a 1.5m-deep granary. In years gone by, a small child would be lowered in on a rope to access stored barley.