© Joe Bindloss / Lonely Planet
Steeped in history yet overflowing with modern life, colorful, cacophonous Delhi pulsates with the relentless rhythms of humanity like few other cities on Earth.
Honk-honk-beeeep! Welcome to Old Delhi. Love or hate it, it's impossible to ignore. Whether you make it your base, or just dip into it for shopping sprees or to see the Red Fort, you'll be hard pushed to ever forget your time in this wonderfully chaotic, and fabulously photogenic corner of the city. You'll be sharing its hectic streets and alleys with carts and cycle-rickshaws, with cows and monkeys, with shoppers and with beggars, with street-food sellers and market traders, and with cars, vans, scooters and autorickshaws; watch your back – honk-honk-beeeep!
As the capital city of one of the most delicious countries on Earth, Delhi tantalizes your taste buds with its thali-like fusion of flavors from every corner of the subcontinent: Breakfast on South Indian idly; lunch on Punjabi kulchas; then, come evening, dine on rich Mughlai curries. But don't forget to leave room for some Dilli-ka-Chaat, Delhi's famously delicious street-food snacks; try sizzling kebabs for starters, then munch on aloo tikki (spiced potato patties) before getting your fingers sticky on jalebi (orange-coloured coils of deep-fried batter dunked in sugar syrup) or savoring some sumptuously creamy cardamon kheer (rice pudding).
All the riches of India twinkle in Delhi's emporiums, so if you're regretting not buying that handmade kathputli (puppet) you saw in Rajasthan or that Madhubani painting you loved in Bihar, fear not; chances are you'll be able to find one here too. New Delhi's emporiums are multi-floor, gift-filled markets that are perfect for a last-minute souvenir binge before you fly home. Old Delhi's famously frenetic street bazaars, meanwhile, contain a mind-boggling array of clothes, slippers, shawls, handicrafts, food, electronics and more – even if you're not buying anything, they're a joy to visit (and photograph).
Delhi is a city built upon cities. There are at least eight historical Delhis, each constructed on, or near, the ruins of its predecessor, leaving a modern-day citadel that's dotted with ancient monuments, many said to be haunted by djinns (spirits). Love history and you'll be left salivating as you trace your way through the eras, clambering across the ruined forts of Tughlaqabad, Siri, Purana Qila and Shajahanabad; exploring the magnificent tombs of eminent historical figures; and visiting the still-vibrant temples, mosques and shrines that throng with devotees today, as they have done for hundreds of years.
The home of Mughal emperors for more than 200 years, Shah Jahan's magnificent fortress stands imperious at one end of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi), and is Delhi's most-famous attraction. The life may have been sucked out of it in the 160 years since the last Mughal emperor left, and there may be little trace of the class and elegance that once characterised this great palace, but the wow factor is undeniable and its 18m-tall perimeter walls are simply astounding.
Believed to have inspired the design for the Taj Mahal, which it predates by 60 years, Humayun’s Tomb is a beautifully well proportioned mausoleum, forming a massive yet elegant centrepiece to the symmetrical gardens it surveys. It was constructed for the Mughal emperor Humayun in the mid-16th century and its arched facade is inlaid with bands of red sandstone as well as white marble, giving it a two-tone appearance that distinguishes it from its better-known, pure-marble cousin. It isn't as perfect as the Taj, but it certainly deserves your attention.
Delhi's loveliest green escape, Lodi Garden is a lush, tree-shaded public park with a scattering of bulky 15th- and 16th-century tombs. Locals come here to jog, to picnic, or just to hang out away from the city traffic. Tourists, meanwhile, can eye up, and explore, the impressive remains of half-a-dozen or so large, Lodi-era tombs that stand incongruously in various corners of the park. Bamboo groves form natural tunnels to walk through, grassy lawns allow for mid-afternoon siestas, and more than 50 species of birds and butterflies keep young kids smiling.
Built on a 10m elevation and towering above the surrounding hubbub, the 17th-century Jama Masjid is the capital's largest mosque and can hold 25,000 people in its courtyard. Made from marble and red sandstone, this was Shah Jahan’s final architectural triumph, and it remains one of central Delhi's most impressive structures. It's frustrating that security guards charge foreign tourists a ₹300 'photography fee', even if they don't want to take photos, but once inside you'll find a friendly atmosphere and a 40m-tall minaret that can be climbed for amazing views.
A visit to the marble shrine of Muslim Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din Auliya is one of those magical Delhi experiences that blends history with living culture. The ascetic died in 1325 at the ripe old age of 92. His doctrine of tolerance made him popular with all faiths, and his shrine is now visited by throngs of devotees each day. The dargah (shrine) is hidden away in a tangle of bazaars, and on Thursday evenings you can hear Sufis singing qawwali (Islamic devotional singing) amid the crowds.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Delhi.
Whether it’s a guided tour of a historic landmark, private tasting of local delicacies, or an off-road adventure — explore the best experiences in Delhi.
