Matt Munro

Yonne

The Yonne département, roughly midway between Dijon and Paris, has long been Burgundy's northern gateway. The verdant countryside harbours the magical hilltop village of Vézelay (a Unesco World Heritage site), the white-wine powerhouse Chablis, and the picturesque medieval town of Noyers-sur-Serein, along with off-the-beaten-track treasures in places like Tonnerre and La Puisaye. Canal boats cruise from the ancient river port of Auxerre and other towns throughout the region.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Yonne.

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Basilique Ste-Madeleine
Founded in the AD 880s on a former Roman and Carolingian site, Vézelay's stunning hilltop basilica was rebuilt between the 11th and 13th centuries. On the famous 12th-century tympanum, visible from the narthex (enclosed porch), Romanesque carvings show an enthroned Jesus radiating his holy spirit to the Apostles. The nave has typically Romanesque round arches and detailed capitals, while the transept and choir (1185) have Gothic ogival arches. The mid-12th-century crypt houses a reliquary reputedly containing one of Mary Magdalene's bones.
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Abbaye de Pontigny
Founded in 1114, Abbaye de Pontigny rises from the lush mustard fields 15km north of Chablis. The spectacular abbatiale (abbey church) is one of the last surviving examples of Cistercian architecture in Burgundy. The simplicity and purity of its white-stone construction reflect the austerity of the Cistercian order. On summer days sunshine filtering through the high windows creates an amazing sense of peace and tranquillity. Discovering Pontigny (€2.50), on sale in the gift shop, points out fascinating architectural details.
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Abbaye St-Germain
This ancient abbey with its dramatic flying buttresses began as a basilica above the tomb of St Germain, the 5th-century bishop who made Auxerre an important Christian centre. By medieval times it was attracting pilgrims from all over Europe. The crypt, accessible by tour (in French, with English handout), contains some of Europe's finest examples of Carolingian architecture. Supported by 1200-year-old oak beams, the walls and vaulted ceiling are decorated with 9th-century frescoes; the innermost sanctum houses St Germain's tomb.
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Fosse Dionne
Some 200L of water per second gushes from Fosse Dionne, a natural spring near the centre of Tonnerre that was sacred to the Celts and whose vivid blue-green tint hints at its great depth. Legend has it that a serpent lurks at the bottom. Forming a picturesque backdrop behind the great circular pool are a mid-18th-century washing house, a semicircle of ancient homes and a steep forested hillside.
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Tour de l'Horloge
In the heart of Auxerre's partly medieval commercial precinct, the golden, spire-topped Tour de l'Horloge was built in 1483 as part of the city's fortifications. On the beautiful 17th-century clock faces (there's one on each side), the sun-hand indicates the time of day; the moon-hand shows the day of the lunar month.
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Chantier Médiéval de Guédelon
At this unique medieval building site, a team of skilled artisans, aided by archaeologists, has been diligently working since 1997 to build a fortified castle using only 13th-century techniques. No electricity or power tools here: stone is quarried on-site using iron hand tools forged by a team of blacksmiths, who also produce vital items such as door hinges. Clay for tiles is fired for three days using locally cut wood, and mortar is transported in freshly woven wicker baskets.
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Château d'Ancy-le-Franc
The Italian Renaissance makes a cameo appearance at this imposing château, built in the 1540s by celebrated Italian architect Serlio. The richly painted interior, like the 32m-mural in the Pharsale Gallery, is mainly the work of Italian artists brought to Fontainebleau by François I. English-language handouts are available for self-guided tours. Don't miss Diane de Poitiers' private apartments on the ground floor, with their recently restored late-16th-century frescoes. Ancy-le-Franc is 19km southeast of Tonnerre (a 20-minute drive via the D905).
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Le Château de Bazoches
Le Château de Bazoches sits magnificently on a hillside with views to Vézelay, 12km to the north. Built in the 13th century and visited by royalty including Richard the Lionheart, it was acquired by field marshal and military strategist Marquis de Vauban in 1675. The château displays a decent collection of 17th- and 18th-century paintings and furniture.
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Cathédrale St-Étienne
This vast Gothic cathedral and its stately 68m-high bell tower dominate Auxerre's skyline. The choir, ambulatory and some of the vivid stained-glass windows date from the 1200s. The 11th-century Romanesque crypt is ornamented with remarkable frescoes, including a scene of Christ à Cheval ( Christ on Horseback; late 11th century) unlike any other known in Western art. In July and August an hour-long son et lumière (sound-and-light) show is held Wednesday through Saturday at 10pm inside the cathedral.