The largely underrated Tarn département, which extends east of Toulouse, has no shortage of attractions, including Albi, which is blessed with one of the most striking cathedrals in France, and graceful Cordes-sur-Ciel. Further along the Tarn valley, Moissac and Montauban are well worth a detour for their architectural heritage.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Tarn.
Museum
Lodged inside the Palais de la Berbie (built in the early Middle Ages for the town's archbishop), this wonderful museum offers an overview of Albi's most celebrated son. The museum owns more than 1000 original works by Toulouse-Lautrec – the largest collection in France outside the Musée d'Orsay – spanning the artist's development, from his early neo-impressionist paintings to his famous Parisian brothel scenes and poster art.
Church
Resembling a castle more than a cathedral, this formidable edifice in orange brick rises above Vieil Albi like an apparition. Its defensive walls hark back to the many religious wars that scarred medieval Albi. Begun in 1282, the cathedral took well over a century to complete; eight centuries later, it's still one of the world's largest brick buildings, and has been on Unesco's World Heritage list since 2010.
Abbey
Rosy brick characteristic of the Toulouse area heightens the majesty of this abbey and its exceptional Romanesque cloister. Awarded Unesco World Heritage status in part for its significance along the Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage route, the abbey contains some compelling religious art, in particular a striking frieze of St John's vision of the apocalypse above the elaborate south portal. The cloister was completed in 1100, followed a few years later by the Tour-Porche bell tower.
Museum
If you’re wondering why almost every French town seems to have a ‘rue Jean Jaurès’, this museum has everything you need to know about the father of French Socialism. Castres-born Jean Jaurès lifted the movement for the emancipation of working people into the mainstream. The museum pays tribute to his life and works (most information is in French), while contextualising principles that remain cherished in modern France: press freedom, the right to strike and the importance of leisure for working people.
Gallery
Montauban's main focus is this fine-arts museum, which centres on the work of the neoclassical painter (and accomplished violinist) Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, who was born in Montauban in 1780. Inspired by Poussin and David, Ingres became one of the most celebrated portrait painters of his day, and the museum houses many of his key works alongside old masters such as Tintoretto, Van Dyck and Gustave Courbet. The museum was closed for renovation at the time of research, and was due to reopen in early 2020.
Museum
This excellent gallery on the 1st floor of Castres' Hôtel de Ville has a collection of mostly Spanish art, including work by Picasso, Rusiñol, Velázquez and, of course, several works by Goya (including the vast La Junte des Philippines). The museum's arms room has interesting collections of old weapons, helmets and fragments of WWII resistance history.
Winery
This well-organised winegrowers' cooperative is a great place to get acquainted with Gaillac wines. It stocks about 100 local vintages. Friendly, knowledgeable staff, and of course you’re welcome to taste the wares and buy the appellations of your dreams.
Square
In the historic upper town, all roads lead to this exquisite square, hemmed in on every side by magnificent double-vaulted arcades and tall pink buildings.
Museum
Lodged in a timber-framed medieval building, this museum houses a small exhibition on the city's history and its connections with Toulouse-Lautrec.