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Roussillon

Dusty scrubland, crimson towns and scorching summer temperatures give Roussillon a distinctly Spanish flavour. Also known as French Catalonia, it incorporates busy beach towns and coastal villages along the Mediterranean as well as the abandoned abbeys and crumbling Cathar strongholds inland among the fragrant maquis. West of Perpignan, Roussillon’s only city, the Tech Valley and the Têt Valley offer a heady mix of picturesque villages and stunning mountainscapes.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Roussillon.

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Palais des Rois de Majorque
Perpignan’s most dominant monument, the Palace of the Kings of Mallorca sprawls over a huge area to the south of the old town. Built in 1276, the castle was later refortified with massive red-brick walls by Louis XIV's military engineer, Vauban. These days the star-shaped citadel is sparsely furnished, but its great battlements and strategic defences still give a sense of the Mallorcan kings’ might. Views from the ramparts stretch over Perpignan’s terracotta rooftops to the coast. Built in a mix of late Romanesque and Gothic styles, the castle is arranged around three courtyards, with a system of ramps, pinch points and ramparts providing a formidable defensive layout. The central courtyard, with its twin arcaded tiers, clearly shows the influence of Spanish architecture, and the complex would once have housed extensive fig and olive groves, lost once Vauban’s formidable citadel walls enclosed the palace.
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Cathédrale St-Jean
Perpignan’s old town has several intriguing churches, but the most impressive is the Cathédrale St-Jean, begun in 1324 and not completed until 1509. Topped by a Provençal wrought-iron bell cage, the cathedral has a flat façade of red brick and smooth, zigzagging river stones. Inside, the fine carving and ornate altarpiece are characteristically Catalan, and the simple statue of the Virgin and child in the north aisle is a venerated relic. Adjacent to the cathedral is a lovely cloister.
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Musée d'Art Hyacinthe Rigaud
Occupying two elegant hôtels particuliers (private mansions) right in the historical centre, this museum was entirely renovated in 2017 and now ranks as the city's leading cultural institution. The galleries are split into three main sections: Gothic Perpignan, Baroque Perpignan and Modern Perpignan. Highlights include portraits by Perpignan-born painter Hyacinthe Rigaud (1659–1743) as well as paintings and carvings by Banyuls-sur-Mer–born Aristide Maillol (1861–1944).
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Place de la Loge
Three fine stone structures flank place de la Loge. The 14th-century La Loge de Mer was rebuilt during the Renaissance; it was once Perpignan’s stock exchange, then its maritime tribunal. Sandwiched between it and the Palais de la Députation, once seat of the local parliament, is the Hôtel de Ville, with a typically Roussillon façade.
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Château Royal
Collioure’s seaside castle was mostly built between 1276 and 1344 by the counts of Roussillon and the kings of Aragon, and was later occupied by the Mallorcan court, although the outer wall was the work of Vauban in the 17th century. Interior furnishings are minimal, but the hybrid Spanish-French architectural styles are striking and the coastal views lovely. Concerts and theatre performances take place in the grounds throughout the year.
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Le Castillet & Musée Casa Païral
Like many medieval towns, Perpignan was once encircled by defensive walls. Today all that remains is the red-brick town gate of Le Castillet, at the northern end of the old town. Inside the gateway is the Casa Païral museum, displaying Catalan ephemera from traditional bonnets and lace mantillas to an entire 17th-century kitchen.
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Musée d’Art Moderne
Boat sketches by Matisse and Edouard Pignon along with coastal canvases by Henri Martin and Henri Marre are among the highlights of this small but worthwhile museum. It has a good collection of mainly 20th-century canvases and holds regular exhibitions by local artists.
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Église Notre-Dame des Anges
At the northern end of the harbour, the medieval belfry of this church once doubled as a lighthouse, although its pink dome – the signature feature of Collioure's skyline – wasn't added until 1810.
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Moulin de la Cortina
The most scenic way to reach this 14th-century windmill is a 950m walk through olive and almond groves from Fort St-Elme along the Cami del Port de Sant Telm (about 20 minutes). Alternatively, it's a steep 150m walk from the Musée d'Art Moderne. Mediterranean views of boats, rocky coast and brilliant blue sea extend from the mill's raised base.