Provence & the Côte d'Azur

Stalls groaning with fruit and veg, trays of cheese and saucisson (dry cured sausage) to sample, stall holders loudly plying their wares – markets are an essential element of Provençal life. Practically every village has at least one weekly market, packed with locals shopping and gossiping, and with dozens of stalls selling everything from locally farmed produce to spices, soaps and handmade crafts. For all-round atmosphere, the Friday morning market in Carpentras is hard to beat.

The maze of Nice's old town is the most joyous part of this exquisite city. In the morning it teems with shoppers checking out the stalls of the market on cours Saleya and the town's numerous delis. In the afternoon tourists take over, lapping up ice creams, strolling along the atmospheric, boutique-lined alleyways and admiring the superb Baroque heritage. After dark, Vieux Nice's bars, pubs and restaurants kick into life, drawing a merry crowd of all ages.

This massive canyon, 25km long and with cliffs that tower up to 900m high, is without doubt one of Provence's natural wonders. Gouged out over millennia by the Verdon River, it's a majestic sight, and there are so many ways to enjoy it: you can hike it, you can bike it, you can cruise along the cliffs, or you can thunder down the river on a raft or kayak. It's worth seeing both from above and below to get a proper perspective on the sheer scale of the thing.

The seat of papal power for much of the 14th century, Avignon's papal palace is by far the city's best-known landmark. But there are lots more historical buildings to discover, some of them now splendid hotels. The popes didn't just build a great city, however – they also planted some fine vineyards. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is without a doubt one of the world's great reds, and going on a wine-tasting tour is part and parcel of discovering the popes' legacy.

Pan-flat and pocked with lagoons and salt-marshes, the Camargue is like a little world of its own. This massive wetland is a wonderful place to escape the hustle and bustle of the coast, whether that means horse-riding along the trails, canoeing the reed-lined channels, or spotting the Camargue's famous flamingos. It's a region steeped in tradition and culture, upheld by the gardians, or cowboys, who herd the Camargue's wild horses and hold their own festival in Arles every May.

Rough-and-ready Marseille is a city on the up. As one of France's most ethnically diverse cities, it's a place that crackles with life and atmosphere, and a fresh crop of flagship museums (including the fantastic MuCEM) has only added to the city's appeal. The heart of town is the beautiful Vieux Port, the old harbour, which is lined with seafood restaurants – if you want to try authentic bouillabaisse, this is the place to do it.

Southern sophistication is everywhere on the streets of Aix-en-Provence, a graceful city with a rich artistic legacy – many impressionist and post-impressionist artists found inspiration here, most notably Paul Cézanne, whose old studio has been preserved largely unchanged since the artist's death. Elsewhere, the excellent Musée Granet houses one of the region's top art collections, with works by all the key names: Picasso, Matisse, Renoir, Gauguin and, of course, Cézanne himself.

With its hilltop villages, fields of lavender, rolling hills and laid-back lifestyle, the valleys of the Luberon are the stuff of Provençal dreams. Attractions can be low-key: ambling in pretty villages, shopping at the weekly market, wine tasting and enjoying a long afternoon lunch on a panoramic terrace. They can also be energetic: the area is prime cycling territory and there are dozens of hiking trails to explore.

The defining feature of northern Provence, Mont Ventoux stands like a sentinel over the region's undulating landscape. Its reputation is mythical among cyclists, but everyone feels the pull of the géant de Provence (Provence's giant), be it for hiking, wildlife-watching (the mountain's biodiversity is second to none), scenic drives or panoramas. On clear days you can see from Camargue to the Alps, and in winter, its snow-capped summit is an unforgettable sight.

Stretching between the Durance and Rhône rivers, this rumpled chain of hills was adored by Vincent Van Gogh, who spent the last years of his life painting the landscapes while he was a resident of an asylum near St-Rémy de Provence. These days the area is a favourite haunt of the rich and famous, with some world-class restaurants dotted around its towns and villages – including legendary L'Oustau de Baumanière.

The coastline around Marseille is marked by high, rocky promontories – known locally as calanques – rising like towers from the electric-blue waters of the Mediterranean. Since 2013, this 20km stretch has been designated France's newest national park, and its cliff-top trails, secret coves and powder-white beaches simply cry out for exploration. Many inlets can only be reached by boat or kayak – and outside the height of summer, you might well have them all to yourself.

St-Tropez and the surrounding peninsula have something of a split personality: the hang-out of choice for superstars and party animals in summer, and a strangely quiet, pretty seaside town the rest of the year. Throngs of summer holidaymakers relish the brilliant clubs, fine beaches (by far the best on the coast) and great eating. Come in June or September for atmosphere minus the crowds. In winter most of St-Tropez shuts up shop, and you'll more than likely have the beaches to yourself.

Famed for its outstanding Roman architecture and for being the home of ill-fated impressionist Vincent Van Gogh, Arles is a delight: it's small, you can walk everywhere, and there is something to see at every corner. There may not be any Van Gogh paintings to admire, but there are informative walking tours and art galleries in honour of the master. And then there is the food: Arles has some of the finest restaurants in the region, so don't leave without indulging in an evening of gastronomic dining.

This stunning trio of coastal roads offers the most outstanding overview (literally!) of the Riviera. The Corniche Inférieure skirts the glittering shores, with numerous swimming opportunities. Up in the hills, the jewel in the crown of the Moyenne Corniche is the medieval village of Èze, spectacularly perched on a rocky promontory offering awe-inspiring views of the coastline. And then there is the Grande Corniche, snaking along the 500m-high cliffs, with spectacular vistas at every bend.

With its skyscrapers, casinos, boutiques and yacht-packed harbour, high-rise Monaco has been for decades the favourite playground of Europe's elite. It's not exactly beautiful – although Monte-Carlo has some fine belle époque buildings, chief among them the famous casino – but it has a certain undeniable cachet. Top things to do include visiting the Musée Oceanographique and watching the daily changing of the guard at 11.55am.