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Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne

The Auvergne’s most exhilarating views are among the volcanic cones, snow-lashed peaks and crater lakes of its Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans (www.parcdesvolcans.fr). One of France’s largest regional natural parks at 3897 sq km, this photogenic section of the Massif Central mountains is a geological jigsaw of granite plateaus and glacier-sculpted valleys, puckered by dozens of sleeping volcanoes.

Outdoor exploration is the parc's main pursuit, with countless places to hike, bike and (snowfall permitting) ski. Quick to the rescue of stiff leg muscles are thermal spas, some with Roman origins. Farm-style cooking is another draw, especially when St-Nectaire and Salers cheeses are involved.

Regional history is also worthy of note. Fortifications such as Volvic's Château de Tournoël and epic Château de Murol bear witness to a battle-torn medieval past, while palatial spas and townhouses in Le Mont-Dore and La Bourboule were left behind by the 19th century's affluent leisure class.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Parc Naturel Régional des Volcans d'Auvergne.

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Volcan de Lemptégy
Feel the Auvergne's smouldering terrain beneath your feet at this mined volcanic site, across the main road from amusement park Vulcania. In summer, at weekends and during school holidays, a motorised 'train' chugs for 3km along the scorched scarlet soil, weaving past boulders flung out of the belly of this ancient volcano. Year-round, the site is visitable on guided walks. Lemptégy's geological forces are further explained through a short 'dynamic 3D' film (spoiler: expect bumps and jolts). Allow 2¾ hours.
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Basilique Notre-Dame
The Romanesque basilica towering over Orcival is one of the most impressive churches in the Auvergne. With its octagonal tower and broad stone arches, 12th-century Notre-Dame is as imposing as a castle. It was built over holy tombs laid waste by Norman invaders and today houses the 12th-century Virgin of Orcival icon, the focus of Ascension Day pilgrimages since the 6th century. Inside, take time to admire carved capitals on top of the graceful stone pillars, and the shadowy crypt.
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Château de Murol
Roosting on a basalt knoll above Murol village, the 12th-century Château de Murol offers peerless views along with insights into a brutish medieval past. Pacing uphill to the castle, you'll pass a 13th-century 'crow's cage' torture implement; the castle interior is far merrier, its chambers draped with animal skins and lit by wooden chandeliers.
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Lac Pavin
This midnight-blue crater lake, enclosed by a fuzz of pine trees, lies 6km southwest of Besse. Blasted out of the earth by a volcanic explosion nearly seven millennia ago, today it attracts trout fishers and walkers; the trail around the shore takes less than an hour. There's pedalo rental in summer (half-/full day €5.50/10). Winter, when the lake has a frosty halo, is even more beautiful.
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Château de Tournoël
This medieval fortress glowers over Volvic from its 600m-high hilltop perch. A watchtower is thought to have stood here since the 10th century, but the square castle keep and round tower date to the 1200s and 1300s. During summer you can take guided tours of the kitchens, Gothic courtyard and defensive tower. It's also an impressive photo-op from outside.
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Vulcania
The Auvergne's long-extinct volcanoes are brought back to life in spectacular style at Vulcania theme park, 15km west of Clermont on the D941. Combining an educational museum with thrills and spills, highlights include 12-minute 'dynamic 3D' film Awakening of the Auvergne Giants, depicting volcanic eruptions complete with air blasts and water spray, a Tornado Alley audiovisual, and the Cité des Enfants (Kids' City), with activities specially geared for three- to seven-year-olds.
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Thermes du Mont-Dore
Le Mont-Dore's graceful 19th-century buildings grew from its centuries-old spa heritage, which long pre-dates its reputation as a ski hub. See the source of its hot springs on a 45-minute guided tour of the grand bathhouses (French only; adult/child €3.50/2.50; 2pm, 3pm and 4pm Monday to Friday). You'll admire neo-Byzantine architecture, including gold-leaf-dappled tilework, be shown 'treatment rooms' (the vapours are thought to cure respiratory ailments), and take a sip of the water – brace yourself for a warmish, metallic-flavoured mouthful.
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La Ferme Bellonte
To buy cheese from the source (and get a little muddy), take the winding road 3km uphill from St-Nectaire to this multi-generational family dairy farm. Kids will love watching the milking of the cows (early morning or late afternoon), while fromage fans can admire fresh batches of cheese being pressed into moulds.
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Lac Chambon
The relatively shallow (and thus warmish) waters of Lac Chambon, 1.5km west of Murol, make this crater lake a much-loved place for families to splash around in summer. Canoes and pedalos can be rented from operators along the shore during summer. Even in winter the frost-dusted beaches are popular with ramblers. Walking the trail around the shore takes an hour.