©Rod Jones/500px
With its rolling pastures and little-visited villages, Limousin might be the most overlooked area of southwestern France. It's not nearly as exciting as the Dordogne to the south or the Loire to the north, but it does offer a chance to get off the beaten path, and aficionados will like Limoges for its porcelain and Aubusson for its tapestries.
Technically, Limousin is no longer an official région, as it was subsumed by the larger Nouvelle Aquitaine in 2016. However, regional cultural identity still exists, centred around three départements: Haute-Vienne, in the west, the capital of which is lively Limoges; the rural Creuse, in the northeast; and, in the southeast, perhaps the most interesting area, the Corrèze, home to Brive-la-Gaillarde and the region’s most beautiful villages.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Limousin.
See
The city’s wonderful art museum is inside the beautifully restored 18th-century bishops’ palace. Get an overview of the town's history through Roman artefacts and medieval treasures, or contemplate the excellent fine arts collection, which ranges from 14th-century Italian masterpieces to entire rooms dedicated to Renoir and Suzanne Valadon. The upper storey displays Limoges enamel and is the pride of the museum.
See
This museum, founded in 1845, has one of France’s two outstanding ceramics collections (the other is in Sèvres, southwest of Paris), so it’s a must for ceramics lovers. Displays illustrate the evolution from earthenware to Limoges hard-paste porcelain, and include 12,000 pieces from Limoges makers as well as Meissen, Royal Doulton, Royal Worcester and others.
See
Built between 1273 and 1888, Limoges’ Gothic cathedral is worth a visit for the Flamboyant-style Portail St-Jean, as well as a glorious rose window, a Renaissance choir screen (beneath the organ loft), and three ornate tombs in the chancel. The bell tower’s lower three stories are part of the few remaining Romanesque portions of the cathedral; its top four storeys are Gothic.
See
Named for the two granite lions flanking its door, Église St-Michel des Lions was built between the 14th and 16th centuries. It contains the relics (including the skull) of St Martial, Limoges’ first bishop, who converted the city to Christianity. Look for the huge copper ball perched atop its 65m-high spire.
See
Pedestrianised rue de la Boucherie was named for the butchers’ shops that lined the street in the Middle Ages. Today it has many attractive medieval half-timbered houses, and the Maison de la Boucherie operates a small history museum. Tiny 1475 Chapelle St-Aurélien, dedicated to the patron saint of butchers, is maintained by the butchers’ guild.
See
One of the oldest porcelain factories, dating from 1797, offers guided tours by reservation, and has the 19.5m-high Four des Casseaux, the only surviving 18th-century brick kiln. It’s 500m southeast of the train station.
See
The Limousin was a stronghold of the Resistance during WWII, and this museum explores the story of their struggle against German occupation through archive film, photography and wartime memorabilia, including photos, letters, diaries and military hardware.
See
Around Limoges, look out for porcelain and enamel tiles on many buildings, including the Pavillon du Verdurier, a beautiful octagonal building dating from 1919. It occasionally hosts rotating exhibits.
See
Four des Casseaux is the only surviving 18th-century brick kiln used in Limoges' porcelain factories. It's part of the factory of Porcelaine Royal Limoges, about 500m southeast of the train station.