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With its rolling pastures and little-visited villages, Limousin might be the most overlooked area of southwestern France. It's not nearly as exciting as the Dordogne to the south or the Loire to the north, but it does offer a chance to get off the beaten path, and aficionados will like Limoges for its porcelain and Aubusson for its tapestries.
Technically, Limousin is no longer an official région, as it was subsumed by the larger Nouvelle Aquitaine in 2016. However, regional cultural identity still exists, centred around three départements: Haute-Vienne, in the west, the capital of which is lively Limoges; the rural Creuse, in the northeast; and, in the southeast, perhaps the most interesting area, the Corrèze, home to Brive-la-Gaillarde and the region’s most beautiful villages.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Limousin.
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Through multimedia displays and survival testimonies, this moving museum pays tribute to the 642 victims of the brutal Oradour-sur-Glane massacre, which was carried out by the Nazi SS 'Das Reich' Division on 10 June 1944. Located 21km northwest of Limoges, the town itself remains untouched, a haunting reminder of the atrocities of war. The names and the recovered belongings of the victims are displayed at an underground memorial in the village centre.
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The city’s wonderful art museum is inside the beautifully restored 18th-century bishops’ palace. Get an overview of the town's history through Roman artefacts and medieval treasures, or contemplate the excellent fine arts collection, which ranges from 14th-century Italian masterpieces to entire rooms dedicated to Renoir and Suzanne Valadon. The upper storey displays Limoges enamel and is the pride of the museum.
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This museum, founded in 1845, has one of France’s two outstanding ceramics collections (the other is in Sèvres, southwest of Paris), so it’s a must for ceramics lovers. Displays illustrate the evolution from earthenware to Limoges hard-paste porcelain, and include 12,000 pieces from Limoges makers as well as Meissen, Royal Doulton, Royal Worcester and others.
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Beaulieu’s most celebrated feature is this 12th-century Romanesque abbey church, with a wonderful tympanum (c 1130) depicting incredible scenes from the Last Judgment, including dancing apostles and resurrected sinners. Also look for its small treasury case filled with 10th- to 13th-century masterworks.
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The history of Pompadour's 15th-century château is intertwined with that of its stud farm. While you can peek in 11 rooms on a self-guided tour (the interior was damaged during the Revolution and again during a 19th-century fire), the real highlight is the visit to the prestigious stables. For an additional charge, you can also tour the foaling nursery or take a backstage look at the equine shows (also available as separate admission, adult/child €5/4).
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The fortified St-Pierre church, constructed from the 11th to the 15th centuries on the site of an 8th-century Benedictine priory, is an important stop on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. In an unusual show of unity during the late 16th century, local Protestants held prayers in the southern nave and their Catholic neighbours prayed in the northern nave. The 12th-century tympanum is made from white Turenne limestone, and the bell tower is in the Limousin style.
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This museum moved to a grand new space at the colourfully striped former National School of Decorative Arts in 2016. The building was completely redesigned to explore tapestry worldwide, and Aubusson's particular history and contribution, as well as contemporary tapestry, including artists in residence. It is a good place to get a historical overview as well as see intricate examples of both antique and modern tapestries produced in Aubusson.
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Five kilometres southeast of Solignac are the moody ruins of the Château de Châlucet, a 12th-century keep occupied by the English during the Hundred Years War. The spot, along a pretty little brook with forested hills and tweeting birds, makes a fine picnic stop, with valley views from the tumbledown keep.
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Pedestrianised rue de la Boucherie was named for the butchers’ shops that lined the street in the Middle Ages. Today it has many attractive medieval half-timbered houses, and the Maison de la Boucherie operates a small history museum. Tiny 1475 Chapelle St-Aurélien, dedicated to the patron saint of butchers, is maintained by the butchers’ guild.