Ethiopia

Nothing prepares you for the first time you see the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and walk among them for real. Carved entirely out of rock, the still-functioning churches are large, artistically refined and mostly in excellent states of preservation. This is Orthodox Christianity at its most raw and powerful, with the extraordinary architecture adorned with extraordinary paintings and enlivened with the soft chants of white-robed priests and pilgrims.

With deep canyons and bizarrely jagged mountains sculpting scenery so awesome that if you saw it in a painting you might question whether it was real, the Simien Mountains are one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in Africa. They offer important protection for some of Ethiopia’s endemic wildlife, and sitting amid a troop of tame gelada monkeys is an experience you’ll never forget. This is terrific trekking territory, but is also easily accessible by car.

By far the most intriguing city in Ethiopia, Harar is a joy to explore. Getting lost in its crooked alleyways is just as fascinating as visiting the many museums, markets and traditional homes packed inside the old city walls. And then there are the hyenas. Two families feed them by hand, and let you do it too, but these large carnivores wander throughout the city and you may just bump into one while walking about at night in one of Ethiopia's most unusual encounters.

Gonder preserves a treasure trove of history. The walls of the Royal Enclosure contain a half-dozen medieval palaces and a host of legends; you can easily imagine the grand feasts they held here as you walk among them. Further out are peaceful and atmospheric sites, including Fasiladas’ Bath, the Kuskuam complex and Debre Berhan Selassie Church, saved from the marauding Sudanese Dervishes by a swarm of bees.

Timkat, the feast of Epiphany, celebrates the baptism of Christ with a three-day festival starting on 19 January. Join the procession behind regalia-draped priests as the church tabots (replicas of the Ark of the Covenant) are taken to a nearby body of water on the afternoon of the eve of Timkat. Next morning, the tabots are paraded back to the church accompanied by much singing and dancing. Easily Ethiopia’s most colourful festival and Gonder is the place to experience it.

The Lower Omo Valley is a remarkable cultural crossroads. From the Mursi people and their lip plates to the Banna with their calabash hats or the body painting Karo, tradition runs deep here. While the commonly held notion that the more than a dozen ethnic groups residing here live completely outside modern society is wrong, walking through the markets and villages or attending one of the many ceremonies really can feel like stepping back in time.

Hidden like lost treasures in this arid landscape, the ancient rock-hewn churches of Tigray are the stirring mountain counterpoints to Lalibela's more famous city-bound churches. Partially carved and partially constructed, most sit on remote cliffsides requiring long walks (and sometimes steep climbs) and the sense of discovery upon arrival is a big part of their appeal. But they also delight on their artistic and historic merits alone.

The Ethiopian wolf is the rarest canid in the world, but on the 4000m-high Sanetti Plateau in the Bale Mountains you are almost guaranteed to see them. And when you’re not watching wolves hunt giant molerats, your eyes will be drawn to the fairy-tale forests draped in ‘old man’s beard’ and the sheer drop of the Harenna Escarpment. Though the mountains are prime trekking territory, there’s no need to step out of your car to enjoy them since you can drive right through on the highest all-weather road in Africa.

The actively volcanic Danakil Depression features a permanent lava lake and a vast field of yellow and orange sulphuric rocks. Just as interesting are the hearty Afar people who eke out a living from the baking, cracked plains. Though there are regular tours into its depths, travel here is not easy (and only possible as part of an organised tour) due to the lack of roads and services, and the soaring temperatures. The Danakil Depression may feel inhospitable, but the sense of exploration is very, very real.

Addis Ababa is evolving at a fast pace. The noisy, bustling capital of Ethiopia is blessed with an agreeable climate, with cloudless blue skies for about eight months of the year. It offers plenty of cultural highlights, including the Ethnological Museum and the National Museum. Addis is also famed for its buzzing restaurant scene and nightlife, with lots of eateries, bars, galleries and clubs. Dive in!

Culinary delights in Ethiopia? Oh yes. Eating Ethiopian-style is a wonderful experience from the sense of community around a shared table to the diverse flavours that make it one of the most varied culinary scenes on the continent. Given that Ethiopian cooking is also known only to a select few beyond the country's borders, there's also a wonderful sense of discovery at large as you sit down to your first shiro, doro wat or tibs. Among the many candidates for a memorable meal, try Yod Abyssinia in Addis.