Surveying Scarborough today, it's hard to imagine the busy medieval fishing village that flourished beneath its impressive headland castle. Much of that history has been blasted away with the salt-sea air, its castle now a toothsome ruin, but what remains is the holiday-resort atmosphere that ran away with the town in the 18th and 19th centuries, capitalising on Scarborough's natural spa waters. These days, its two attractive beaches are the main draw for loyal local holidaymakers.
Cliff-scaling tramways ferry visitors down to the South Bay promenade (where you'll find free wi-fi), lined with arcades and fish-and-chip shops. There's much to recommend a visit to Scarborough – including a redeveloped Victorian spa, grand water park, Edwardian pleasure gardens and interesting geology museum – yet the downbeat city centre still feels like it's stuck in the past, and not in a fashionably retro sort of way.