Mark Read
Bahariya is one of the more fetching of the desert circuit oases, and at just 365km from Cairo it's also the most accessible. Much of the oasis floor here is covered by sprawling shady date palms and speckled with dozens of natural springs, which beg to be plunged into. The surrounding landscape of rocky, sandy mesas is a grand introduction to the Western Desert's barren beauty.
During the Middle Kingdom and especially during Roman times, the oasis was a centre of agriculture, producing wine sold in the Nile Valley and as far away as Rome. Its strategic location on the Libya–Nile Valley caravan routes ensured it prospered also throughout later ages. In recent years, stunning archaeological finds, such as that of the Golden Mummies, and easy access to the White and Black Deserts have earned Bahariya a firm spot on the tourist map.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Bahariya Oasis.
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The change in the desert floor from beige to black, 50km south of Bawiti, signals the beginning of the Black Desert. Formed by the erosion of the mountains, which have spread a layer of black powder and stones over the peaks and plateaus, it looks like a landscape straight out of Hades. The Black Desert is a popular stop-off for tours running out of Bahariya Oasis and is usually combined with a White Desert tour.
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This water museum is a real treat, with an informative introduction to Egypt's water resources and problems, the geology of the Western Desert, traditional agriculture and architecture in the oases, and what needs to be done to deal with water shortage. The museum is housed in a wonderful building, an example of sustainable architecture, in basalt and rammed earth.
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This small mound amid the houses of Bawiti is likely built upon centuries of debris. There are two well-preserved 26th-dynasty tombs here, which were robbed in antiquity and reused as collective burial sites in Roman times. Both are home to some excellently preserved and colourful wall paintings.
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Gebel Dist is an impressive pyramid-shaped mountain visible from most of the oasis. A local landmark, it is famous for its fossils; dinosaur bones were found here in the early 20th century, disproving the previously held theory that dinosaurs only lived in North America. In 2001 researchers from the University of Pennsylvania found the remains of a giant specimen, Paralititan stromeri.
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Clearly visible from the road to Cairo, flat-topped Gebel Al Ingleez, also known as Black Mountain, takes its name from a WWI lookout post. From here Captain Williams, a British officer, monitored the movements of Libyan Senussi tribesmen. But the real reason to come up here is for the fantastic panoramic views, which roll out across the oasis and to the desert beyond.
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Ain Gomma is one of the most magnificent springs around. Cool, crystal-clear water gushes into this small pool surrounded by the vast desert expanse, and the funkiest cafe in all of the oases sits beside it. Situated near the town of Al Hayz, you can take a Dakhla-bound bus here, but it’s difficult to get back without your own transport. Many safari trips to the White Desert will stop here en route.
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A few kilometres south of the Bahariya–Cairo road, about 7km from Bawiti, lies the mini-oasis of El Jaffara, where two springs – one hot, one cold – make this a prime spot in winter or summer. It's near Eden Garden Camp.
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Only 10 of Bahariya's richly decorated cache of 10,000 mummies are exhibited here. While the motifs are formulaic and the work is second-rate, the painted faces show a move away from stylised Pharaonic mummy decoration towards Fayoum portraiture. Underneath the wrappings, the embalmers' work appears to have been sloppy, so these mummies mark the beginning of the end of mummification.
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Four 26th-dynasty chapels, approximately 2km northwest of Bawiti, together form the Temple of Ain Al Muftella. The bulk of the building was ordered by 26th-dynasty high priest Zed-Khonsu-ef-ankh, whose tomb (closed to the public) has been discovered under houses in Bawiti. Archaeologists suspect that the chapels could have been built during the New Kingdom, significantly expanded during the Late Period, and added to during Greek and Roman times.