Perhaps the most enticing of all the Ionian islands, magical Kefallonia is a place where it's easy to lose yourself, amid air thick with oleander and the sound of goat bells. The largest, and perhaps the most varied, of the islands, there's space to breathe here, and its convoluted coastline conceals all sorts of captivating coves and beach-lined bays lapped by gin-clear waters teeming with colourful fish. Despite the devastating earthquake of 1953 that razed much of the island's historic Venetian architecture, ravishing harbour-front villages such as Fiskardo and Assos still show off Italianate good looks, while the lush and mountainous interior, dotted with wild meadows, Mediterranean oak forests and vineyards, invites endless exploration.
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