One of the world’s oldest operating amusement parks, Tivoli Gardens (www.tivoli.dk/en/; entrance & ride pass 209/419kr adult/child) is an amusement park that's genuinely enchanting. It's very Danish, with all the hygge, fun and fantasy, none of the tacky junk. (Okay, a bit of tacky junk, but still – it really is the prettiest amusement park you’ll ever visit.) It's redecorated every season to fit the theme. There are a couple of scarier rides, a century-old roller coaster, a boating lake, wandering peacocks, and lots for smaller children, such as the whimsical Hans Christian Andersen ride, a playground and vintage cars on a track. There are fireworks every Saturday night, and "Fredagsrock" concerts take place on the outdoor Plænen stage on summer Friday evenings: these occasionally reach capacity, so go early. There’s also the 1874 open-air Peacock Theatre, with ballet (sometimes with sets designed by former Queen Marguerite). Food and drink includes street stalls and sit down restaurants. It opens April to September, plus Halloween and Christmas.
Indeed, Tivoli is at its most romantic after dusk, when the fairy lights are switched on, cultural activities unfold and the clock tower of the neighboring Rådhus soars in the moonlight like the set of a classic Disney film.
Each of Tivoli's numerous entertainment venues has a different character. Perhaps best known is the open-air Pantomime Theatre, built in 1874 by Vilhelm Dahlerup, the Copenhagen architect who also designed the royal theater. Tivoli's large concert hall features performances by international symphony orchestras and ballet troupes, as well as popular musicians. While the numerous open-air performances are free of charge, there's usually an admission fee for the indoor performances – check the website for venue details, line-ups and prices.
Amusement ride tickets cost 30kr (some rides require up to three tickets), making the unlimited-ride wristband (230kr) better value in most cases.
Outside the main summer season, Tivoli also opens for approximately three weeks around Halloween, from mid-November to late December for Christmas, through February for the Winter Season, and at Easter. For up-to-date opening times, see the Tivoli website.
