Encompassing a once-abandoned military barracks and surviving parts of Christian V’s 17th-century Fæstningsringen (Fortification Ring) bastions, Freetown Christiania was established by squatters in the heady days of 1971. It has existed in an uneasy relationship with the Danish state ever since. The area has drawn nonconformists from across the globe, attracted by the concept of collective business, workshops and communal living.
Bowing to public pressure, the government allowed the community to continue as a social experiment. Self-governing, ecology-oriented and generally tolerant, Christiania residents did, in time, find it necessary to modify their "anything goes" approach. The area was long notorious for "Pusher Street," where weed and hash were once sold openly, before a spate of gang-related violence led to a community-led crackdown. Pusher Street no longer hosts its eponymous dealers and was dug up in 2024 in preparation for reestablishing the zone as a cultural center.
At present the area has the feel of a traveler hangout somewhere like Nepal or the Khaosan Road, with an unpaved surface, fluttering prayer flags and wooden buildings selling vegan meals, T-shirts and fridge magnets.
Outside the center, Christiania is a wild and wonderful place to wander, full of whimsical DIY homes, cozy garden plots, eateries, beer gardens, music venues, waterfront trails – and a tantalizing taste of the slightly chaotic, countercultural frisson that perfectly coiffed Copenhagen sometimes lacks. Resident-led tours start at the Prinsessegade entrance at 3pm (weekends year-round, daily July and August; 60kr cash). Many places don't accept cards, so take some cash.
Wander around to find Green George, one of Thomas Dambo’s two famous giant wooden trolls to be found in Copenhagen, as well as Galloperiet (Stadens Museum for Kunst), an upstairs gallery showing local Christiania artists. Stop at beloved, volunteer-run, hippy garden cafe Morgenstedet, with an enchanting, Hansel-and-Gretel vibe, serving a bargain menu of vegetarian treats.
