©Karakirky/Shutterstock

Arenal & Northern Lowlands

You know about the region’s main attraction: that now-dormant volcano, surrounded by old lava fields, bubbling hot springs and a stunning lake. Venture further onto the wild rivers and into the tropical jungle of the northern lowlands and you will discover real-life Costa Rica, where agricultural commerce and ecological conservation converge as a work in green progress. Stretching from the borderlands of Nicaragua south to the Cordillera de Tilarán, fincas (farms) of banana, sugarcane and pineapple roll across humid plains. Community tourism lives and breathes here, creating added revenue for a historically farm-based economy. You can spot a macaw in the wild, paddle into roaring rapids and cruise inky lagoons, all with lifelong resident guides, then nest in lodges that double as private rainforest reserves. Make your way here for a refreshing blast of rural realism and an invigorating dose of wild beauty.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Arenal & Northern Lowlands.

See
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
From 1968 until 2010, Volcán Arenal was an ever-active and awe-striking natural wonder, producing menacing ash columns, massive explosions and streams of glowing molten rock almost daily. While the fiery night views are gone for now, this mighty mountain is still a worthy destination. Part of the Area de Conservación Arenal, the park is rugged and varied, with about 15km of well-marked trails that follow old lava flows. Hikers routinely spot sloths, coatis, howler monkeys, white-faced capuchins and even anteaters. Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal is approximately 17km west of La Fortuna. The main park entrance is on the road to El Castillo (turn off the main road 13km west of town). It’s easiest to reach the park by car or on a tour. Otherwise take any bus to Tilarán and ask the driver to let you off at the turnoff. In 2017 a new 'sector peninsula' set of trails opened, comprising 1.2km of trails, an observation tower and scenic lake overlook. Although the last entrance to the national park is at 2:30pm, you may be allowed to enter and stay at the new sector later.
See
Viento Fresco
If you're travelling between Monteverde and Arenal, there's no good excuse for skipping this stop. Viento Fresco is a series of five cascades, including the spectacular Arco Iris (Rainbow Falls), which drops 75m into a refreshing shallow pool that’s perfect for swimming. There are no crowds or commercialism to mar the natural beauty of this place. You’ll probably have the falls to yourself, especially if you go early in the day. Add on a horseback riding tour or grab lunch at the restaurant to support this family-run operation. It’s located 11km south of Tilarán on the road to Santa Elena (a US$15 cab ride from Tilarán). The 1.3km of trails are maintained, but the stone steps can be slippery, especially after a rainfall, and only the reasonably fit can hike to the bottom and back.
See
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro
This remote, 102-sq-km refuge has long lured anglers seeking that elusive 18kg snook, and birders hoping to glimpse rare waterfowl. During the dry season water levels drop, concentrating the birds (and fish) in photogenically (or tasty) close quarters. From January to March, when migratory birds land in large numbers, avian density is most definitely world class. Stop at the ranger station first to pay the admission fee. Thanks to improved roads, tour operators are now able to offer relatively inexpensive trips to Caño Negro from all over the country. However, you don’t need them to explore the river. It’s much more intriguing and rewarding to rent some wheels (or hop on a bus), navigate the rutted road into the rural flat lands and hire a local guide right in the center of Caño Negro village. It’s also a lot cheaper, and it puts money directly into the hands of locals, thus encouraging communities in the area to protect wildlife.
See
Proyecto Asis
It’s an animal rescue center. It’s a volunteer project. It’s Spanish classes. This community-based organization is doing a lot of good, and you can help. The introductory experience is a two-hour tour of the wildlife rescue center, but it’s worth springing for the half- or full-day ‘volunteering’ experience, which includes hands-on interaction with the animals. You'll see monkeys and birds, as well as pizotes, peccaries and more. Close-toed shoes are obligatory; bug repellent is recommended. Most the animals have been seized from private hands (it's illegal in Costa Rica to have wild animals as pets) and some, but not all, are returned to the wild. There's also wild, uncaged animals onsite, such as birds – including a growing colony of boat-billed herons, toucans and manakins – plus caimans and bats. Keep a sharp eye out. Asis also offers homestays in the local community. It’s located in Jabillo, about halfway between Ciudad Quesada and La Fortuna. Any Fortuna–Quesada bus which passes through Chachagua (US$2.80, 40 min) can drop you here; just ask the driver. Asis can also arrange a taxi for you. Reserve at least a day in advance.
See
Cinco Ceibas
Finca Pangola (11 sq km) contains a swathe of dense, green primary rainforest, home to some of the country's oldest and largest trees. Including, yes, five glorious ceiba trees that you'll see as you walk 1.2km along the raised wooden jungle boardwalk. The stroll is paired with horseback riding, kayaking or an ox-cart ride for a carefully choreographed adventure. Cinco Ceibas offers transportation for day-trippers from San José or La Fortuna. If you have your own wheels, it’s a one-hour drive on mostly gravel roads from La Virgen. From the highway north of town, take the turn off to Pueblo Nuevo.
See
Ecocentro Danaus
This center, 4km east of town, has a well-developed trail system that’s excellent for birding, as well as for spotting mammals such as coatis and agoutis (racoons and rodents of unusual size). The admission fee includes a visit to a butterfly garden, a ranarium featuring poison-dart frogs, and a small lake containing caiman and turtles. Reserve in advance for any guided tour (recommended), the morning birding tour, or the excellent night tour. Bilingual guides are knowledgeable and good spotters. You can walk part of the way from town to here, but eventually the sidewalk ends. It's much safer to take a taxi (US$6) or your own car. A Maleku indigenous workshop onsite introduces you to their culture and crafts.
See
Heliconia Island
Down a rugged road and across the hanging bridge is home to more than 80 varieties of heliconias, tropical flowers, plants and trees. The two-hectare island overlooking the Río Puerto Viejo is also a refuge for 228 bird species, including the sought-after dusky-faced tanager. Since the original owners sold, the gardens are not as spectacular, though still great for birding. Located about 5km north of Horquetas, across the road from the pueblo of Las Chaves (ask the bus driver to let you off there). Guests can BBQ on a terrace overlooking the river and stay in immaculate raised cabins (d/q/apt from US$85/110/126) with stone floors and breezy balconies (one with bunk beds for families of four to six).
See
Frog’s Heaven
The frogs hop free in this lovely tropical garden, a perfect habitat for more than 28 species. On bilingual guided tours you’re likely to see old favorites such as the red-eyed tree frog and poison-dart frogs, as well as some lesser-known exotic amphibians, such as the translucent glass frog and the wrinkly Mexican tree frog. Come for the twilight tour (5pm) to see a whole different frog world. Find it diagonal from the church. Jose's opened a new area featuring snakes such as the fer-de-lance, eyelash pit viper, and false coral. This place is also excellent for birding and has a mirador dedicated to photographing them. It's recommended to reserve in advance.
See
Arenal EcoZoo
This snake house offers a hands-on animal experience, as in, handling and milking a venomous snake. It's home to a red-tailed boa (one of the largest snakes in the world), as well as frogs, amphibious lizards, iguanas, turtles, scorpions, tarantulas and butterflies. Good photo ops! Ask about feeding time if you want to see snakes devouring bugs, frogs and even other snakes. Located on the main road uphill from the lake, which connects to La Fortuna. A two-hour guided tour offers a more intimate experience. A soda is attached – though you may not have much of an appetite after watching feeding time.